Wedding Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Della Maria Brown
American, 1867 - 1953
Clothing MakerMade by
R. H. White & Co.
American
Date1891
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with machine-embroidered silk, brass hooks and eyes, unidentified boning (probably baleen), cotton wadding, and silk/cotton cording
DimensionsBodice (length x width between shoulders): 24 x 12in. (61 x 30.5cm)
Skirt (center back length): 64 1/2in. (163.8cm)
Skirt (center back length): 64 1/2in. (163.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Vincent Brown Coffin
DescriptionWoman's dress, consisting of a bodice (a) and skirt (b), made of cream-colored silk crepe woven with a scattered floral design. The bodice is draped with very sheer, scallop-edged silk which is machine-embroidered with a floral pattern in cream-colored silk. The shallow, V-shaped neckline is edged with a three-inch-wide ruffle of this sheer, embroidered silk, which continues down the center front opening and, in two tiers, across the bottom edge. The waistline is pointed at center front and center back. The crepe fabric is closely pleated along each edge of the bodice opening from the bottom edge to the natural waistline, then the fullness is released to the neckline. The side of each front bodice panel is covered with the scalloped and embroidered silk, with the scallops oriented towards the opening. The two-piece sleeves are narrow and gathered into the armscye, which rests at the natural shoulderline. They are draped along the outside of the arms and ruffled around the wrists with the embroidered silk. The bodice front is fitted with two ten-inch-long darts on each side, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. Each dart and seam is boned. The seam allowances are notched and bound with silk tape; the lining fabric is plain, cream-colored silk. The center front opening fastens with brass hooks and eyes, which are oriented alternately in opposing directions for extra security. A semicircular, silk-covered pad of cotton wadding is stitched in the underarm area, under a silk-covered dress shield, for a smooth fit. The petersham with the maker's label is stitched inside the center back and fastens around the waist with a hook and eye.
The skirt (b) is made of the flowered crepe and has a train. The skirt is stitched smoothly across the front and is knife-pleated over each hip. The back is very tightly cartridge-pleated into the waistband. A ruffle of the embroidered silk decorates the bottom of the front of the skirt. The train is edged with heavy silk cording. The center back opening extends eleven inches; it fastens with a hook and eye at the waistband. The skirt is lined with tan-colored silk in the front panel and in the back, but not the sides. Additionally, plain, cream-colored cotton is cartridge-pleated to the inside of the waistband across the back; it is stitched with two horizontal drawstring casings to pull the fullness of the skirt to the back. Inside the bottom edge of the skirt all the way around is an eight-inch-deep lining of three different types of stiffened cotton; the lower layer is a pleated ruffle edged with 2 1/2 inches of machine-made lace.
The skirt (b) is made of the flowered crepe and has a train. The skirt is stitched smoothly across the front and is knife-pleated over each hip. The back is very tightly cartridge-pleated into the waistband. A ruffle of the embroidered silk decorates the bottom of the front of the skirt. The train is edged with heavy silk cording. The center back opening extends eleven inches; it fastens with a hook and eye at the waistband. The skirt is lined with tan-colored silk in the front panel and in the back, but not the sides. Additionally, plain, cream-colored cotton is cartridge-pleated to the inside of the waistband across the back; it is stitched with two horizontal drawstring casings to pull the fullness of the skirt to the back. Inside the bottom edge of the skirt all the way around is an eight-inch-deep lining of three different types of stiffened cotton; the lower layer is a pleated ruffle edged with 2 1/2 inches of machine-made lace.
Object number1971.67.14.1a-b
MarkingsWoven tape label, petersham of bodice: "R. H. White & Co. / BOSTON." The lettering is orange; the first line is in script letters, while the second line is in block letters.NotesHistorical Notes: Della Maria Brown (b. 1867) married Seward Vincent Coffin, son of Governor Owen Vincent Coffin (1836-1921) and Ellen Elizabeth Coe Coffin (1835-1912), on 13 May 1891 in Middletown, Connecticut. The wedding took place at 6 PM in the home of her father, H. L. Brown, at 42 Crescent Place. Reverend W. G. Fennell performed the ceremony. Miss Grace B. Peaslee of Kingston, New Hampshire, was the maid of honor, and Carroll J. Post, Jr. of Brooklyn, New York, was the best man.Subject Terms
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