Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Eltruda Hale
American, 1801 - 1893
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1815-1820, with later alteration
MediumHand-stitched silk, with cotton cord
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length x width across center, including sleeve width): 50 x 21in. (127 x 53.3cm)
Hem (circumference): 86 1/2in. (219.7cm)
Hem (circumference): 86 1/2in. (219.7cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of E. F. Waterman
DescriptionThis day dress is made of black silk crepe with a scattered woven floral motif; the hem edge is woven with a five-inch border pattern of flowers. The border is woven along one selvage edge; therefore, the fabric in the skirt is cut of a single length of fabric on the crosswise grain rather than the lengthwise grain as is usual. The waistline is high (3 3/4 inches long at the side, under the armhole), and the neck is wide and square. The sleeves are long and narrow, with short oversleeves that are puffed and made of black sarsnet (a lightweight plain-woven silk). The neckline edge, armscye, shoulder piecing, oversleeve cuffs, side seams and side back seams are all piped. Old stitch lines in the bodice indicate that it was lengthened in about 1825 or so, in order to update the fashion of the dress. The piping in the seams was added at that time, also, and possibly the center back bodice panel, which is made of a different figured silk crepe of a lighter color. The center back opening of the dress is thirteen inches long. There are currently no closing mechanisms on the dress, but it probably once had hooks and eyes.
The skirt is full in the back, being pleated closely for a width of nine inches across the center back at the waistline. The bodice is also gathered at the center back. The skirt is perfectly smooth across the front and sides of the body; the bodice is very slightly gathered at center front.
The dress is lined with black silk like that used on the oversleeves in the sleeves, and on the sides of the bodice. Raw edges of the lining fabric in the bodice suggest that the front of the bodice was also lined originally.
The skirt is full in the back, being pleated closely for a width of nine inches across the center back at the waistline. The bodice is also gathered at the center back. The skirt is perfectly smooth across the front and sides of the body; the bodice is very slightly gathered at center front.
The dress is lined with black silk like that used on the oversleeves in the sleeves, and on the sides of the bodice. Raw edges of the lining fabric in the bodice suggest that the front of the bodice was also lined originally.
Object number1954.20.2
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