Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Caroline Lucinda Bolles Cleveland
American, 1826 - 1889
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1861
MediumHand-stitched and machine-stitched silk with cotton lining and cashmere or mohair plush and silk cording.
Skirt (a): Brass hooks and eyes.
Bodice (b): Metal boning, brass hooks and eyes, silk tassels, and faux mother of pearl enameled metal buttons.
Bodice (c): Metal boning and brass hooks and eyes.
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (height x width): 47 x 9 3/4in. (119.4 x 24.8cm)
Hem: 182in. (462.3cm)
Hem: 182in. (462.3cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. C. P. Moies and Mrs. Herbert Baeder
DescriptionWoman's dress with two optional bodices (one for day wear, the other for evening), made of bright yellow silk taffeta, trimmed with white plush.
(a) The skirt is very large to accomodate hoops; it is longer in back than in the front. The 182-inch circumference of the skirt is controlled at the 19 3/4-inch waist by layered box pleats stitched to the waistband. The hem is decorated with a 5 3/4-inch width of white plush, topped by a cream silk cording. The skirt is fully lined with white glazed cotton. The waistband is lined with twill-woven white cotton. The hem edge is finished with cream-colored twill-woven wool tape.
(b) Day bodice with coat sleeves trimmed with white plush and cording. Two cream-colored silk tassels hang from the outer wrist edge. The sleeves have a 2 1/2-inch-wide, m-shaped cap at the top, with another pair of tassels hanging from the center of the m. The bodice length is above the natural waistline, measuring 6 3/8 inches at the side under the armscye. The bodice closes at center front with six pearly dome-shaped shank buttons and two hooks and eyes. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the opening. The neckline is high and round; it is finished with self-covered piping, as is the waistline edge and armscye seams. The bodice is lined with white twill-woven cotton. The sleeves are lined with white glazed cotton. The wrist openings are lined with ecru silk, edged on the inside with pleated ecru silk ribbon.
(c) Evening bodice with short sleeves, which at their widest point at the top of the arm measure 4 1/8 inches. These sleeves are trimmed with a 3/4-inch wide band of the plush topped by the silk cord. The bodice has a wide neckline, finished with narrow, self-covered piping. The waistline edge and armscye seams are also piped. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front, which closes with hooks and eyes. White twill-woven cotton is used for the bodice lining, and ecru glazed cotton is used to line the sleeves. The front darts and side seams are boned.
(a) The skirt is very large to accomodate hoops; it is longer in back than in the front. The 182-inch circumference of the skirt is controlled at the 19 3/4-inch waist by layered box pleats stitched to the waistband. The hem is decorated with a 5 3/4-inch width of white plush, topped by a cream silk cording. The skirt is fully lined with white glazed cotton. The waistband is lined with twill-woven white cotton. The hem edge is finished with cream-colored twill-woven wool tape.
(b) Day bodice with coat sleeves trimmed with white plush and cording. Two cream-colored silk tassels hang from the outer wrist edge. The sleeves have a 2 1/2-inch-wide, m-shaped cap at the top, with another pair of tassels hanging from the center of the m. The bodice length is above the natural waistline, measuring 6 3/8 inches at the side under the armscye. The bodice closes at center front with six pearly dome-shaped shank buttons and two hooks and eyes. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the opening. The neckline is high and round; it is finished with self-covered piping, as is the waistline edge and armscye seams. The bodice is lined with white twill-woven cotton. The sleeves are lined with white glazed cotton. The wrist openings are lined with ecru silk, edged on the inside with pleated ecru silk ribbon.
(c) Evening bodice with short sleeves, which at their widest point at the top of the arm measure 4 1/8 inches. These sleeves are trimmed with a 3/4-inch wide band of the plush topped by the silk cord. The bodice has a wide neckline, finished with narrow, self-covered piping. The waistline edge and armscye seams are also piped. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front, which closes with hooks and eyes. White twill-woven cotton is used for the bodice lining, and ecru glazed cotton is used to line the sleeves. The front darts and side seams are boned.
Object number1972.3.5a-c
NotesHistorical Note: According to a letter written by the donors, Caroline Lucinda Bolles (Mrs. Edward Spicer Cleveland) (1826-1889) wore this dress to the first inaugural ball of President Abraham Lincoln in 1861. Her husband, Edward Spicer Cleveland, was a prominent member of the Wide Awake movement in 1860 and actively campaigned for Lincoln.Subject Terms
On View
Not on view
