Man's Uniform Jacket
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
General John Moore Kelso Davis
American, 1844 - 1920
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1863-1867
MediumHand-stitched mixed blue/grey (salt and pepper) wool broadcloth, silk cord, and gold-colored buttons
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x breast circumference): 30 1/2 x 38in. (77.5 x 96.5cm)
Other (sleeve length): 25 1/2in. (64.8cm)
Other (sleeve length): 25 1/2in. (64.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of John M. K. Davis
DescriptionSingle-breasted cadet's uniform jacket ( a "coatee") made of mixed blue/grey wool broadcloth and faced with the same material in the breast and collar. The interior is lined on the sides and back with faced twill-woven cotton, and the sleeves are lined in a more pronounced twill of white cotton. The coatee is trimmed with black silk cord terminating in trefoils around gold "bullet" buttons (3/4-inch spheres). The buttons appear to be original, and they are not back marked. The sleeves are ornamented with chevrons that appear to be a variation of a cadet sergeant's rank. The three chevrons are gold lace on black wool broadcloth ground. They are hand-stitched to the broadcloth, which is then hand-stitched to the body of the coatee.
The coatee appears to have been produced as a standard size that was then modified to fit its wearer, as evidenced by the placement of some buttons, which have been moved further in from their original position. It has a very short standing collar that hooks in the front. The front edge of the collar defines the center front of the coatee. The proper left side of the coatee (the buttonhole side) extends 1/2 inch beyond the center line, and the proper right side extends 1 to 1 1/2 inches beyond the center line. The coatee has a natural shoulderline consistent with the 1860s and some easing in the sleeve cap. The coatee has a narrow back panel and much less easing than earlier coats. The sleeves are wrist-length, which is shorter than earlier sleeves. The shape of the sleeves date the coat to the 1860s or later: the sleeve is fuller, with a more rounded cut and no distinct elbow point, and it curves in an arc along the back seam and is a straight line on the front. The coatee has short, approximately thigh-length, skirts. It is hand-stitched in the center back seams, waist seams, and side panel seams at the waist. To produce a better fit, there are seams right under the arms and a dart on either side of the center front at the waist.
The coatee appears to have been produced as a standard size that was then modified to fit its wearer, as evidenced by the placement of some buttons, which have been moved further in from their original position. It has a very short standing collar that hooks in the front. The front edge of the collar defines the center front of the coatee. The proper left side of the coatee (the buttonhole side) extends 1/2 inch beyond the center line, and the proper right side extends 1 to 1 1/2 inches beyond the center line. The coatee has a natural shoulderline consistent with the 1860s and some easing in the sleeve cap. The coatee has a narrow back panel and much less easing than earlier coats. The sleeves are wrist-length, which is shorter than earlier sleeves. The shape of the sleeves date the coat to the 1860s or later: the sleeve is fuller, with a more rounded cut and no distinct elbow point, and it curves in an arc along the back seam and is a straight line on the front. The coatee has short, approximately thigh-length, skirts. It is hand-stitched in the center back seams, waist seams, and side panel seams at the waist. To produce a better fit, there are seams right under the arms and a dart on either side of the center front at the waist.
Object number1984.112.10
Inscribed"DAVIS, J." written in ink on the back lining of the coat.NotesHistorical Note: John Moore Kelso Davis (1844-1920) began his studies at West Point in September 1863 and graduated in 1867. He served in the Spanish American War and was promoted to brigadier general on 25 May 1907. General John M. K. Davis retired from the United States Army on 31 January 1908.On View
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