Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mary Jane Buel
American, 1827 - 1884
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1855-1860
MediumHand-stitched barege (silk and wool fabric), with silk lining and cotton lining, brass hooks and eyes, unidentified boning (probably baleen) and silk fringe
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length x width across broadest area of shoulders): 54 x 22in. (137.2 x 55.9cm)
Hem (circumference): 160in. (406.4cm)
Hem (circumference): 160in. (406.4cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Seth P. Holcombe and Mrs. Gilbert A. Wicke
DescriptionWoman's day dress (.a) with matching cape collar (.b) of barège (wool weft, silk warp), with a pattern of woven sheer and opaque stripes, printed with floral motifs in red, green, maroon, and yellow. The neckline is wide and the shoulder is dropped. The bell-shaped sleeve is constructed in a semicircle with an extra point extending from one side; it is rolled, so that the silk fringe trimming wraps around the sleeve somewhat like a spiral. The sleeve has a separate, gathered sleeve cap. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front opening, which closes with brass hooks and eyes. The neckline, waistline edge, and armscyes are piped. The lining of the bodice is plain-woven white cotton; the darts and side seams are boned.
The skirt is cartridge-pleated to a waistband, which is then stitched to the bodice. The bottom edge of the skirt is finished with a shot red/white silk (and cotton?) tape.
The cape collar of matching barège is trimmed with the same red/white/green silk fringe as is used on the dress. The collar comes to a point at center back, center front, and over each shoulder. It has a high, round neck, which is finished with piping. The collar is lined with a light-weight, plain-woven ecru silk. The center front closes with brass hooks and thread eyes. There is the remnant of red tape (the same as used on the hem) stitched to the center back point; it was perhaps used to pin to the dress so the collar stayed in place.
The skirt is cartridge-pleated to a waistband, which is then stitched to the bodice. The bottom edge of the skirt is finished with a shot red/white silk (and cotton?) tape.
The cape collar of matching barège is trimmed with the same red/white/green silk fringe as is used on the dress. The collar comes to a point at center back, center front, and over each shoulder. It has a high, round neck, which is finished with piping. The collar is lined with a light-weight, plain-woven ecru silk. The center front closes with brass hooks and thread eyes. There is the remnant of red tape (the same as used on the hem) stitched to the center back point; it was perhaps used to pin to the dress so the collar stayed in place.
Object number1981.26.17a,b
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