Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mary Hall
(American)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1862
MediumBodice: Machine-stitched and hand-stitched cotton, metal hooks and eyes, boning, silk
Skirt: Machine-stitched cotton, silk, metal hooks and eyes
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length x width): 21 x 48in. (53.3 x 121.9cm)
Skirt (length x width): 53 x 55in. (134.6 x 139.7cm)
Skirt (middle layer skirt hem circumference): 220in. (558.8cm)
Skirt (top layer skirt hem circumference): 133in. (337.8cm)
Skirt (bottom layer skirt hem circumference): 152in. (386.1cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Annetta Eddy Brigham
Object number2001.49.3a,b
DescriptionBodice (.a): This bodice is formed from a white, plain-woven cotton base fabric covered in a pale yellow starched cotton gauze. The wide neckline (ten inches) is decorated with tightly gathered yellow gauze. The sleeves are decorated in a similar manner, with loosely gathered gauze sewn to the lining at four spots to create small puffed rings around the arm. The sleeves, unlike the bodice body, are lined in a yellow plain-woven silk. More 1-1/4 inch wide, loosely gathered yellow gauze is used to accent the bustline. Extending approximately 2 1/2 inches up from the neckline edge is an added piece of off-white starched cotton gauze. Tightly gathered lines of off-white cotton netting are attached to the off-white gauze. This extension has been loosely attached to the bodice with a long running stitch. The seventeen-inch long sleeves flare to a wide opening, 36 inches in circumference. The front of the bodice extends to a rounded "V" at the waistline. At the back, a more exaggerated point extends six inches from the waist. Black 1 1/2-inch wide cotton lace is used to decorate the bodice around the entire neckline, the circumference of the sleeve hems, and the center front and center back of the bodice.
The bodice is closed with eight sets of 1/2-inch metal hooks and 3/8-inch metal eyes at the center front. Two seven-inch long sections of boning are found at the front left and right sides. Single sections of 5 1/2-inch-long boning are located at the back left and right sides, while eight-inch-long boning is at the center back, extending through the long point at the back. Black twill-woven silk tape is used to edge the interior of the bodice hemline. The black hand stitches used to apply the lace are evident on the interior.
Skirt (.b): This polonaise-styled skirt is made from three layers of yellow starched cotton gauze identical to that used in the bodice. The 1 1/2-inch wide black cotton lace used in the skirt is also identical to that used in the bodice. The top layer, at its shortest point at center front, measures 32 inches. At its longest point at center back, the top layer measures 48 inches. Typical of a polonaise style skirt, there are three shorter "U" shaped panels of fabric falling at the center front and over each hip. At the center back, there is a longer "U" shaped panel. Each panel edge is accented with strips of black lace beginning thirteen inches from the waistline and ending at the hem. The top layer is attached to a one-inch wide white cotton plain-woven waistband. It is secured to two metal hooks and eyes. A 2 3/4 x 2 3/8-inch woven tape has been added to the edge of this waistband. The tape has a warp-faced floral design. The next two layers of gauze are attached to a second 3/4-inch wide white plain-woven cotton waistband. This waistband has been extended with a 3 x 3/8 inch piece of woven tape. This tape is white with a warp-faced floral pattern. Two 3/8-inch metal eyes are still present on the left side of the waistband, but the hooks are missing. The second layer of gauze has lace in repeating trapezoid shapes, beginning 21 inches from the waistband. Four inches from the hemline, a 1/16-inch wide black cotton braid had been applied over 2 1/2-inch wide gathered self-fabric. It occurs on the entire circumference of this layer. Another line of lace is applied 1 1/4-inch from the hem. The third layer of the skirt is unadorned. It is nineteen inches longer at the back than at the front, and it has a two-inch wide hem.
NotesHistorical Notes: According to family history, Mary Hall Tuckerman wore this as a bridemaid's dress, with shoes 2001.49.40a,b, at Lizzie Barrett's [?] wedding in 1862, upstate New York. (Schoelwer 3/20/2002)The bodice is closed with eight sets of 1/2-inch metal hooks and 3/8-inch metal eyes at the center front. Two seven-inch long sections of boning are found at the front left and right sides. Single sections of 5 1/2-inch-long boning are located at the back left and right sides, while eight-inch-long boning is at the center back, extending through the long point at the back. Black twill-woven silk tape is used to edge the interior of the bodice hemline. The black hand stitches used to apply the lace are evident on the interior.
Skirt (.b): This polonaise-styled skirt is made from three layers of yellow starched cotton gauze identical to that used in the bodice. The 1 1/2-inch wide black cotton lace used in the skirt is also identical to that used in the bodice. The top layer, at its shortest point at center front, measures 32 inches. At its longest point at center back, the top layer measures 48 inches. Typical of a polonaise style skirt, there are three shorter "U" shaped panels of fabric falling at the center front and over each hip. At the center back, there is a longer "U" shaped panel. Each panel edge is accented with strips of black lace beginning thirteen inches from the waistline and ending at the hem. The top layer is attached to a one-inch wide white cotton plain-woven waistband. It is secured to two metal hooks and eyes. A 2 3/4 x 2 3/8-inch woven tape has been added to the edge of this waistband. The tape has a warp-faced floral design. The next two layers of gauze are attached to a second 3/4-inch wide white plain-woven cotton waistband. This waistband has been extended with a 3 x 3/8 inch piece of woven tape. This tape is white with a warp-faced floral pattern. Two 3/8-inch metal eyes are still present on the left side of the waistband, but the hooks are missing. The second layer of gauze has lace in repeating trapezoid shapes, beginning 21 inches from the waistband. Four inches from the hemline, a 1/16-inch wide black cotton braid had been applied over 2 1/2-inch wide gathered self-fabric. It occurs on the entire circumference of this layer. Another line of lace is applied 1 1/4-inch from the hem. The third layer of the skirt is unadorned. It is nineteen inches longer at the back than at the front, and it has a two-inch wide hem.
Status
Not on view
Object/Object
