Bicorne Hat
HatterMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1795-1805
MediumFelted black beaver fur, with leather edging, silk lining, silk and (probably) worsted wool ribbon, and black silk ribbon
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (height x width of the taller rear leaf): 8 x 15in. (20.3 x 38.1cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineConnecticut Museum of Culture and History collection
Object number1985.180.0
DescriptionOfficer's uniform bicorne hat, made of felted black beaver fur. The hat is made to be worn with the leaves extending side to side, rather than front to back. The two leaves of the hat are of unequal size; one leaf is about one inch taller than the other, making the taller leaf the rear. The hat was made collapsible, so it could be carried under the arm in chapeau bras style. The hat has a black leather edging hand-stitched to the underside. The portion of the leather that turns up into the crown to form the front and rear sweatband is tooled or embossed in a diamond pattern. Based on visible shadow lines on the inner crown lining, it appears that the sections of sweatband that would have formed the side linings to the crown are missing. The crown is lined with a very thin, fine, black plain-woven silk.
The front leaf of the hat is 14 1/2 inches wide from side to side, and seven inches tall. The rear leaf is fifteen inches wide across its base and eight inches tall. The edges of both the front and rear leaf are trimmed in a 1 1/2-inch-wide black silk and worsted wool (probably) ribbon in a herringbone pattern. There are also bands of this same tape extending from the base of the crown diagonally upwards and outwards towards the outer edge of both the front and rear leaf. On the underside of the front leaf, there is a strip of thin black leather, purpose unknown, but possibly reinforcement for a cockade. It is stitched along two of its four edges. Also attached to the back side of the front leaf is a 1/8-inch-wide black silk ribbon tie, which passes through to the front side of the hat. This may have been used to tie the two leaves together when the hat was used as a chapeau bras.
NotesObject Note: This would be worn point to point. The front leaf of the hat is 14 1/2 inches wide from side to side, and seven inches tall. The rear leaf is fifteen inches wide across its base and eight inches tall. The edges of both the front and rear leaf are trimmed in a 1 1/2-inch-wide black silk and worsted wool (probably) ribbon in a herringbone pattern. There are also bands of this same tape extending from the base of the crown diagonally upwards and outwards towards the outer edge of both the front and rear leaf. On the underside of the front leaf, there is a strip of thin black leather, purpose unknown, but possibly reinforcement for a cockade. It is stitched along two of its four edges. Also attached to the back side of the front leaf is a 1/8-inch-wide black silk ribbon tie, which passes through to the front side of the hat. This may have been used to tie the two leaves together when the hat was used as a chapeau bras.
Status
Not on view
