Man's Uniform Chapeau Bras
HatterMade by
Charles Clark
(American)
Date1830-1840
MediumHand-stitched, fur-finished silk over a cardboard base, with a worsted wool sweatband, black silk lining, silk grosgrain ribbon edging, silver boullion fringe tassels, a padded silk satin cockade, silver boullion cord, silver metallic embroidery, a domed button, and (now missing) a red feather plume
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length front to back, excluding tassels x height of leaves): 18 x 9 1/2in. (45.7 x 24.1cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineMuseum purchase
Object number1973.41.0
DescriptionInfantry officer's chapeau bras, completely hand-stitched of fur-finished silk over a cardboard base. (The cardboard can be seen by looking up into hat through damage in the lining.) The hat has a black, worsted wool sweatband and a black silk lining. The crown lining is a fine, embossed silk, with the maker's label stamped in gold (see Marks). The high leaves that curve up at a sharp angle conform with 1832 Army regulations for an infantry officer's hat; earlier chapeaux bras has a shallower profile. However, Army Regulations indicate that this is a militia officer's chapeau bras, because the banding on the proper right side is silver cord rather than silver lace; the Army would use lace. Also, there is no embroidered eagle, as commonly appears on Army officer's chapeaux bras.
The leaves of the hat are fastened together by means of ties attached near the middle of the front and rear slopes of the hat, about midpoint of each leaf. Both leaves are edged in a 1/2-inch-wide silk grosgrain ribbon wrapped over the edges of each leaf. The hat is ornamented on its front and rear ends with a tassel made of 1/4-inch-wide silver bullion fringe. This hat is worn fore and aft, with the cockade on the proper right. The proper right leaf is ornamented with a circular, black silk satin cockade, six inches in diameter, which is pinked around its outer perimeter in 1/2-inch-wide teeth. The cockade is padded with cotton batting, also called cotton wool or cotton rovings. The cockade is held in place by a diagonal band extending from the top of the leaf towards the front of the hat, consisting of four cords composed of two cords of silver bullion twisted together into a cord. At the bottom of that band is 1 1/4-inch-diameter domed button covered with silver metallic embroidery. On the inside of the proper right leaf, near the top back edge of the leaf, is a leather sleeve, about three inches long by one inch wide, to which a feather plume would be attached. There is residue of red feather fluff on the inside of the hat.
The leaves of the hat are fastened together by means of ties attached near the middle of the front and rear slopes of the hat, about midpoint of each leaf. Both leaves are edged in a 1/2-inch-wide silk grosgrain ribbon wrapped over the edges of each leaf. The hat is ornamented on its front and rear ends with a tassel made of 1/4-inch-wide silver bullion fringe. This hat is worn fore and aft, with the cockade on the proper right. The proper right leaf is ornamented with a circular, black silk satin cockade, six inches in diameter, which is pinked around its outer perimeter in 1/2-inch-wide teeth. The cockade is padded with cotton batting, also called cotton wool or cotton rovings. The cockade is held in place by a diagonal band extending from the top of the leaf towards the front of the hat, consisting of four cords composed of two cords of silver bullion twisted together into a cord. At the bottom of that band is 1 1/4-inch-diameter domed button covered with silver metallic embroidery. On the inside of the proper right leaf, near the top back edge of the leaf, is a leather sleeve, about three inches long by one inch wide, to which a feather plume would be attached. There is residue of red feather fluff on the inside of the hat.
Status
Not on view
