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Man's Uniform Chapeau Bras

Original OwnerOriginally owned by General Alfred Howe Terry (1827 - 1890)

HatterMade by H. V. Allien & Co. (American)

Date1872

MediumHand-stitched, black fur-finished silk, leather, silk satin lining, black grosgrain ribbon, gold vellum lace, gold bullion, gold wire twist, and ostrich feather plumes

DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length front to back x height of proper right leaf): 18 1/2 x 5in. (47 x 12.7cm)

ClassificationsCostume

Credit LineConnecticut Museum of Culture and History collection

Object number1950.210.2

DescriptionUnited States Army officer's dress chapeau bras made of hand-stitched, black fur-finished silk. The style is consistent with the pattern established by the Army regulations of 1872. The crown has a russett leather sweatband hand-stitched into it and a purple silk satin lining. The lining is stamped with the maker's label (see Marks). The leaves (the portions of the brim that have been folded up toward the crown of the hat) on both sides of the hat have a 1 3/8-inch, black grosgrain ribbon extending from the crown towards the edge of the leaves to form a V. Attached to the inside of the leaf at the edge of the grosgrain trim are 1/4-inch-wide, black grosgrain ribbon ties used to tie the leaves up in position. In the middle of the leaf on the proper right side is a black moire silk rosette cockade, four inches in diameter, with pinked edges. The side piece consists of a 1 1/2 x 5 inch strip of gold vellum lace bordered by a 1/4-inch-wide band of gold bullion and gold wire twist. At the bottom of the side piece is a gilt United States Army staff officer's button. There is no other embellishment on that side, although about one-third of the way down from the top there is shadowing and three small holes, apparently pin holes, suggesting there may once have been an eagle and scroll with "E PLURABUS UNUM" (see hat 1950.210.1 for comparison). When opened, the chapeau bra has a flat-topped crown, approximately three inches deep. The top of the chapeau bras is adorned with two rows of ostrich feathers sewn to the inside of each leaf. Some of the feathers are coming undone.

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