Man's Uniform Frock Coat
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
John Henry Kelso Davis
(American, 1875 - 1956)
Clothing MakerMade by
Ridabock & Co.
(American)
Date1909
MediumMachine-stitched fine broadcloth, cotton sateen lining, grosgrain ribbon trim, gold vellum lace, gilt buttons, and japanned-iron hooks and eyes
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x breast circumference): 34 x 38in. (86.4 x 96.5cm)
Other (sleeve length): 24in. (61cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of John M. K. Davis
Object number1984.112.6
DescriptionConnecticut National Guard Cavalry officer's uniform frock coat made of dark blue wool fine broadcloth. Machine-stitched throughout. The coat is double-breasted. From front to back, the coat has a four-piece upper body, consisting of a lapel, a forepart, a side body panel, and a back panel. The coat has an attached skirt. The lining of the upper body and skirts is black cotton sateen, padded and machine-quilted over the breast and just under the sleeves. The sleeves are lined in a blue and white striped cotton sateen. At the center back lining of the coat at the base of the collar, a black silk soutache loop is sewn into the collar seam, probably for hanging the coat. On the inside of the proper left side of the coat, opposite the lowermost buttonhole, is a 7/8-inch-diameter four-hole black (horn?) button, which was used to fasten the coat at the waist. The button would have fastened into the buttonhole in the lapel at the proper right waist. There is a breast pocket on the proper left side of the lining of the coat, with a maker's label stitched to the blue wool facing (see Marks).
The breast of the coat has two rows of ten Connecticut state buttons. These buttons are two-piece, with brazed wire shanks and gilt faces embossed with the state arms of Connecticut. The buttons are back marked, "RIDABOCK & CO. NEW YORK". There are buttonholes on both the proper right and proper left lapels of the coat. The buttonholes are welted. Wear evidence suggests that the proper left was usually buttoned over the proper right. Crease lines extending from the collar down to the sixth buttonhole from the bottom indicate that the coat was worn with the upper part of the lapel fastened back. The two-inch standing collar of the coat is heavily interfaced with canvas and is lined with black cotton sateen. The outside of the collar is blue broadcloth trimmed with a strip of 5/8-inch-wide, gold-yellow silk grosgrain ribbon, which is, in turn, bordered by a gold vellum tape or lace, which is machine-stitched to the collar through the grosgrain ribbon. The center fronts of the collar are fastened with two japanned-iron wire hooks and eyes. On the inside of the collar, approximately two inches back from the center front, are two spring clasps, purpose unknown, possibly for fastening a collar ornament. There is a third clasp at the center back of the collar as well. The back of the coat has an extension of the side seams into the skirts to form pleats. Two inches up for the bottom hem on either side, inside the pleats, is a 7/8-inch-diameter Connecticut state button. At the waistseam, where it joins to the back, are two more 7/8-inch-diameter Connecticut state buttons. On both shoulders of the coat, 1 1/4 inches up from the shoulder seam towards the collar, is a 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch strap of dark blue wool broadcloth matching the coat. One inch down from the collar on the shoulder is fixed a 5/8-inch-diameter Connecticut state button affixed to a stud, which screws into a threaded post which is fastened into the body of the coat. The stud and the strap loop would hold an epaulet in place. The two-piece sleeves of the coat are cut in the post-Civil War style with a curved back seam. The sleeves are ornamented at the cuff with a strip of 1/2-inch, metallic gold vellum lace or tape, machine-stitched to the sleeve and encircling the cuff 2 1/2 inches above the hem. Above this band on the upper sleeve is a pair of gold thread-embroidered crossed swords and the number "2". The crossed swords are indicative of cavalry. The "2" could represent a regimental designation. The upper sleeve is further ornamented by a trefoil (an "Austrian knot") of intervoven strips of 1/8-inch-wide, metallic gold vellum lace. The Austrian knot was often used as a rank designation for a captain.
The breast of the coat has two rows of ten Connecticut state buttons. These buttons are two-piece, with brazed wire shanks and gilt faces embossed with the state arms of Connecticut. The buttons are back marked, "RIDABOCK & CO. NEW YORK". There are buttonholes on both the proper right and proper left lapels of the coat. The buttonholes are welted. Wear evidence suggests that the proper left was usually buttoned over the proper right. Crease lines extending from the collar down to the sixth buttonhole from the bottom indicate that the coat was worn with the upper part of the lapel fastened back. The two-inch standing collar of the coat is heavily interfaced with canvas and is lined with black cotton sateen. The outside of the collar is blue broadcloth trimmed with a strip of 5/8-inch-wide, gold-yellow silk grosgrain ribbon, which is, in turn, bordered by a gold vellum tape or lace, which is machine-stitched to the collar through the grosgrain ribbon. The center fronts of the collar are fastened with two japanned-iron wire hooks and eyes. On the inside of the collar, approximately two inches back from the center front, are two spring clasps, purpose unknown, possibly for fastening a collar ornament. There is a third clasp at the center back of the collar as well. The back of the coat has an extension of the side seams into the skirts to form pleats. Two inches up for the bottom hem on either side, inside the pleats, is a 7/8-inch-diameter Connecticut state button. At the waistseam, where it joins to the back, are two more 7/8-inch-diameter Connecticut state buttons. On both shoulders of the coat, 1 1/4 inches up from the shoulder seam towards the collar, is a 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch strap of dark blue wool broadcloth matching the coat. One inch down from the collar on the shoulder is fixed a 5/8-inch-diameter Connecticut state button affixed to a stud, which screws into a threaded post which is fastened into the body of the coat. The stud and the strap loop would hold an epaulet in place. The two-piece sleeves of the coat are cut in the post-Civil War style with a curved back seam. The sleeves are ornamented at the cuff with a strip of 1/2-inch, metallic gold vellum lace or tape, machine-stitched to the sleeve and encircling the cuff 2 1/2 inches above the hem. Above this band on the upper sleeve is a pair of gold thread-embroidered crossed swords and the number "2". The crossed swords are indicative of cavalry. The "2" could represent a regimental designation. The upper sleeve is further ornamented by a trefoil (an "Austrian knot") of intervoven strips of 1/8-inch-wide, metallic gold vellum lace. The Austrian knot was often used as a rank designation for a captain.
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