Man's Coat, Vest, and Belt Buckle
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1888-1895
MediumCoat (.a): Machine-stitched and hand-stitched dark blue wool and buff-colored wool fine broadcloth, lined with twill-woven white cotton, and skirts lined with twill-woven silk/cotton or silk/wool.
Vest (.b): Machine-stitched buff-colored wool broadcloth, plain-woven white cotton, and a metal buckle.
DimensionsComponent (coat .a: center back length neck to hem x breast circumference): 38 x 38in. (96.5 x 96.5cm)
Other (coat .a: sleeve length from shoulder): 24in. (61cm)
Component (vest .b: center back length x breast circumference): 18 x 36in. (45.7 x 91.4cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of George B. Clark, Jr.
Object number1997.117.0a-c
DescriptionPutnam Phalanx uniform coat (.a), made in the Colonial Revival style to imitate a Revolutionary War military coat. The coat appears to be factory made. The body of the coat is dark blue wool fine broadcloth and buff wool fine broadcloth. Most of the coat is lined with twill-woven white cotton, but the skirts are lined with twill-woven black silk/cotton or silk/wool. The main lining has machine-stitched pockets, and it is machine-stitched to the dark blue facing. The facing is hand-stitched with the skirt lining to the body of the coat, but the principle seams of the coat are machine-stitched, and the lapels and turn backs are machine-stitched to the body. Stylistically, the coat consists of three sections: the breast, skirts, and side panels. It is constructed with underarm seams. The coat fastens at mid-breast on the center front line with two pairs of brass hook and eye closures. It has a "stand-and-fall" collar. This type of collar rises up against the neck and drops down, and the front edges of the rise and fall are stitched together. The collar is interfaced and reinforced with rows of stitching on the rise, to help the collar stand up. This stitching was done by machine, helping to identify the coat as a nineteenth-century reproduction. The buttons on the front of the coat are 5/8-inch, one-piece, silvered-brass buttons with a brazed wire loop shank. They appear to be original, and they are not back marked. The button shanks pass through the body of the coat and fasten against an interfacing on the inside with a cord or a tape running from button to button. The buttons on the lapels, cuffs, and on the back are all one-inch diameter. Unlike the other buttons, the buttons on the back are plain brass. Vertical pockets are set into the skirt lining underneath the pleats that appear on the exterior. The lining of the pocket flaps is the same material as the skirt lining. The two-piece sleeve has no distinguishable elbow point; a genuine eighteenth-century coat sleeve comes down and turns at a distinct elbow point.
Single-breasted Putnam Phalanx uniform vest (.b), made in the Colonial Revival style using modern techniques to imitate a Revolutionary War uniform waistcoat. The front of the vest is made of buff wool broadcloth, and the lining is plain-woven white cotton. The vest is constructed in a style consistent with the last quarter of the nineteenth century, as evidenced by the welted breast pockets, the short skirts, and the shape of the front. The vest is fairly straight fronted, with a sharp cut-away at the waist and with skirts that angle back sharply. It has a short standing collar and two flapped pockets at the waist covering slip pockets. The collar and pockets deviate from genuine Revolutionary War era waistcoats, which had no collars or pocket flaps. The vest has one-piece brass buttons with no back marks, and it has hand-worked, eyelet-ended ("keyhole") buttonholes. Because this coat was for ceremonial use rather than actual military use, the buttons were made removable for easy cleaning. Finished eyelets were formed in the body of the vest, the buttons were put through, and a ring was attached at the back to hold the button in place. The back of the vest is made of plain-woven white cotton. A self-fabric strap with a metal buckle adjusts the fit. The buckle is stamped, "PAT. MAR. 13th 1888".
NotesHistorical Note: The Putnam Phalanx may have distributed different pieces of uniforms to members based on their size. They may also have taken back uniforms once a person left the group. (Cooke 10/21/2003)Single-breasted Putnam Phalanx uniform vest (.b), made in the Colonial Revival style using modern techniques to imitate a Revolutionary War uniform waistcoat. The front of the vest is made of buff wool broadcloth, and the lining is plain-woven white cotton. The vest is constructed in a style consistent with the last quarter of the nineteenth century, as evidenced by the welted breast pockets, the short skirts, and the shape of the front. The vest is fairly straight fronted, with a sharp cut-away at the waist and with skirts that angle back sharply. It has a short standing collar and two flapped pockets at the waist covering slip pockets. The collar and pockets deviate from genuine Revolutionary War era waistcoats, which had no collars or pocket flaps. The vest has one-piece brass buttons with no back marks, and it has hand-worked, eyelet-ended ("keyhole") buttonholes. Because this coat was for ceremonial use rather than actual military use, the buttons were made removable for easy cleaning. Finished eyelets were formed in the body of the vest, the buttons were put through, and a ring was attached at the back to hold the button in place. The back of the vest is made of plain-woven white cotton. A self-fabric strap with a metal buckle adjusts the fit. The buckle is stamped, "PAT. MAR. 13th 1888".
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