Man's Uniform Frock Coat
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Captain John Davenport Cheney
(American, 1870 - 1919)
Clothing MakerMade by
Brooks Brothers
(American)
Date1906
MediumWool, lined with cotton sateen and twill-woven silk, trimmed with grosgrain ribbon, with metallic gold vellum lace, silver metallic thread embroidery, and gilt buttons
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x breast circumference): 36 x 39in. (91.4 x 99.1cm)
Other (sleeve length): 25in. (63.5cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineConnecticut Museum of Culture and History collection
Object number1986.247.0
DescriptionConnecticut National Guard Infantry officer's wool frock coat. The coat is double-breasted, with seven welted buttonholes on each lapel, and seven corresponding two-piece, gilt buttons with brazed wire shanks. The buttons have the Connecticut state seal on the face, and they are back marked "BROOKS, BROS. NEW YORK". The single strip of 1/8-inch metallic gold vellum lace forming the trefoil (or "Austrian knot") on the sleeve indicates that this is the coat of a lieutenant. Beneath the Austrian knot on each sleeve is an appliqué of silver metallic thread-embroidered crossed rifles, the symbol of the Infantry, over which is embroidered the number one. The appliqué is hand-stitched to the sleeve, and the Austrian knot is machine-stitched. Below the knots and the appliqués, the sleeve is further embellished with 1/2-inch-wide metallic gold vellum lace, set 2 1/2 inches up from the hem at the bottom of the sleeve. The coat's two-inch-wide standing collar is heavily stiffened with interfacing. The center front of the collar is fastened by a pair of black japanned iron hooks and eyes. It is trimmed with a one-inch-wide piece of sky blue silk grosgrain ribbon, of which 3/8 inch is exposed. Sky blue is the color used to denote Infantry. The exposed portions of the ribbon have faded to white, but the parts under the vellum lace still retain their original sky blue color. The ribbon is edged on all sides with 1/2-inch-wide metallic gold vellum lace, overlapping the edges of the ribbon.
The coat is lined in the breast and skirts with black cotton sateen. The collar is lined with black twill-woven silk. A black cotton sateen fabric loop is sewn into the cotton seam at the base of the collar lining at the center back, presumably for hanging the coat. The sleeve lining is a gold and white striped cotton sateen. The proper left breast lining has a vertical breast pocket, with a maker's label sewn to the blue wool facing (see Marks). The pocket bags are made of fine, white, twill-woven cotton. The coat is heavily padded and machine quilted under the arm and over the breast, in both the lining and the front facing. It is quilted in a series of lines running parallel to the waist seam. On the inside of the proper left waist seam, there is a 3/4-inch-diameter, black cotton sateen-covered button. This button fastens through the buttonhole on the proper right lapel when the coat is buttoned across.
NotesHistorical Note: According to the label in the coat, Captain John Davenport Cheney, Jr., was a captain in the 1st Connecticut Infantry. According to the Connecticut State Register and Manual of 1906, he was the quartermaster.The coat is lined in the breast and skirts with black cotton sateen. The collar is lined with black twill-woven silk. A black cotton sateen fabric loop is sewn into the cotton seam at the base of the collar lining at the center back, presumably for hanging the coat. The sleeve lining is a gold and white striped cotton sateen. The proper left breast lining has a vertical breast pocket, with a maker's label sewn to the blue wool facing (see Marks). The pocket bags are made of fine, white, twill-woven cotton. The coat is heavily padded and machine quilted under the arm and over the breast, in both the lining and the front facing. It is quilted in a series of lines running parallel to the waist seam. On the inside of the proper left waist seam, there is a 3/4-inch-diameter, black cotton sateen-covered button. This button fastens through the buttonhole on the proper right lapel when the coat is buttoned across.
Historical Note: According to Army Regulations, one strip of lace in an Austrian knot denoted lieutenant, two strips denoted captain...each grade up added one stripe. (Cooke 11/5/2003)
Status
Not on view
