Wedding Tail Coat and Vest
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Hamilton Washington Conklin
(American, 1835 - 1905)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1837
MediumCoat (.a): Hand-stitched wool with silk linings and metal disc buttons.
Vest (.b): Hand-stitched silk with glazed cotton, plain cotton, and metal disc buttons.
DimensionsComponent (coat length x width across shoulders): 37 1/4 x 15 3/4in. (94.6 x 40cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. William Conklin
Object number1993.66.3a,b
DescriptionMan's double-breasted, cutaway tail coat (.a) of high quality black wool broadcloth. The front closure has four silk-covered black buttons made from metal discs on each side with corresponding handmade buttonholes. Only the bottom two buttonholes on each side are slit for use. The notched lapels are slightly peaked. The turn-over collar is 1 3/4 inches wide at the center back. The torso is lightly padded, with decorative patterns of stitching showing in the lining at the chest, back of the armscye, and hip areas. The sleeves are constructed of two pieces, ending in a turned-over hem with no separate cuffs or buttons. The shoulders are slightly gathered. The shoulder seams angle down across the back from collar to armscye. The coat has a center back and a set of curved side back seams. There are also underarm seams and a single dart on each side front. The cutaway skirt begins 5 3/4 inches from each side front edge of the front closure. There is a breast pocket in the proper left lining, and a deep pocket of brown glazed cotton extending down each tail. There is a silk-covered button at the bottom of each side back seam. The coat is fully lined with black silk, except for the sleeves, which are lined with a white silk.
Man's single-breasted vest (.b) of cream-colored silk damask with a small, overall pattern reminiscent of paisley butah. The front closure has three small, self-covered metal disc buttons on the proper left with corresponding handmade buttonholes on the right. The deep shawl collar is faced with glazed twill-woven cotton; the same fabric is used for the back of the vest. The breast pocket, located on the proper left, has a double welt opening. The two side pockets have turned-up flaps at the slash opening. All three pockets are made of the glazed twill. The front is lightly padded at the chest with a dart used for further fitting. The back of glazed twill-woven cotton has a center back seam and is stitched to the damask at the side seams under the arms. The hem at the center back seam is curved up at each side. A self-fabric belt is stitched to each side seam and tacked halfway across, with a brass buckle on the proper left. The shoulder seams do not have the extreme downward angle seen in the matching coat. The vest is lined with a plain, cream-colored cotton. This garment is beautifully sewn, with minute hand-stitched topstitching along the collar, front edges, armholes, hem, pockets, and front darts.
Man's single-breasted vest (.b) of cream-colored silk damask with a small, overall pattern reminiscent of paisley butah. The front closure has three small, self-covered metal disc buttons on the proper left with corresponding handmade buttonholes on the right. The deep shawl collar is faced with glazed twill-woven cotton; the same fabric is used for the back of the vest. The breast pocket, located on the proper left, has a double welt opening. The two side pockets have turned-up flaps at the slash opening. All three pockets are made of the glazed twill. The front is lightly padded at the chest with a dart used for further fitting. The back of glazed twill-woven cotton has a center back seam and is stitched to the damask at the side seams under the arms. The hem at the center back seam is curved up at each side. A self-fabric belt is stitched to each side seam and tacked halfway across, with a brass buckle on the proper left. The shoulder seams do not have the extreme downward angle seen in the matching coat. The vest is lined with a plain, cream-colored cotton. This garment is beautifully sewn, with minute hand-stitched topstitching along the collar, front edges, armholes, hem, pockets, and front darts.
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