Man's Tail Coat and Vest
RetailerTail coat sold by
Horsfall & Rothschild
(American)
Clothing MakerTail coat made by
Unknown
Clothing MakerVest made by
Solide
Date1885-1900
MediumTail Coat (.a): Hand-stitched and machine-stitched wool with silk lining and ferrous metal buttons. Cotton lining of pockets.
Vest (.b): Hand-stitched and machine-stitched wool with silk back and cotton lining. Ferrous metal buttons and buckle.
DimensionsComponent (Tail coat length x width across shoulder seams): 40 x 16in. (101.6 x 40.6cm)
Component (Vest length x width across shoulder seams): 21 1/2 x 15in. (54.6 x 38.1cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Guy Lemieux
Object number1984.99.4a,b
DescriptionMan's black, finely spun and woven wool cutaway tail coat (.a). The double-breasted closure has two sets of ferrous metal buttons covered with black satin, with corresponding hand-stitched keyhole buttonholes. Three sets of faux buttonholes are stitched along the lapels up to the notch. The peaked, notched lapels are lined with black satin. Each side front has a dart 3 5/8 inches long for fitting. The side seams are placed in the back of the garment and not directly below the arm. There is a curved, shaped side back seam on each side of the center back seam. There is a button, identical to those on front, at the base of each side back seam where each seam meets the waistline seam and the pleat of each tail. The cutaway curves away from the waist to form the tail; it is not a sharp angle. Each tail has an interior pocket lined with white cotton. There are also interior pockets, one at each breast, with the very narrow double welt openings lying vertically in the jacket, and not horizontally, as is more commonly found. The shaped sleeves are constructed from two pieces, an upper and lower sleeve, ending in a simple hem. Topstitching three inches from the edge delineates cuffs, upon which are sewn, along the outer seam, three smaller covered buttons. The coat is lined with a black satin fabric. The sleeves are lined with a cream-colored silk. A narrow black satin ribbon is stitched to the center back neck.
Man's black, finely spun and woven wool and silk vest (.b). The single-breasted closure has three ferrous metal buttons covered with black satin with corresponding hand-stitched, keyhole buttonholes. The vest is constructed with underarm side seams and a back center seam notched at the bottom. The neckline has a deep "U" shape with a shawl collar that ends in the shoulder seams. Each side front piece has an upturned welt pocket at the waist. There is an interior pocket sewn into the proper left side. The opening runs along the seam where the facing and lining materials meet the waist. The front pieces are made of the finely spun and woven wool. The back pieces, including the belt, are made of black satin. The belt is connected with a buckle of a shiny blue metal decorated with a silhouette of an eagle's head. The vest is lined with a tan-colored, satin-weave cotton.
Man's black, finely spun and woven wool and silk vest (.b). The single-breasted closure has three ferrous metal buttons covered with black satin with corresponding hand-stitched, keyhole buttonholes. The vest is constructed with underarm side seams and a back center seam notched at the bottom. The neckline has a deep "U" shape with a shawl collar that ends in the shoulder seams. Each side front piece has an upturned welt pocket at the waist. There is an interior pocket sewn into the proper left side. The opening runs along the seam where the facing and lining materials meet the waist. The front pieces are made of the finely spun and woven wool. The back pieces, including the belt, are made of black satin. The belt is connected with a buckle of a shiny blue metal decorated with a silhouette of an eagle's head. The vest is lined with a tan-colored, satin-weave cotton.
Status
Not on view