Tail Coat and Pants
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Michael F. Conway
(American, 1858 - 1940)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1910-1925
MediumCoat (.a): Hand-stitched and machine-stitched wool and silk,with ferrous metal buttons.
Pants (.b): Machine-stitched wool and cotton, plastic buttons, and an unidentified metal hook and eye.
DimensionsComponent (coat length x width across shoulders): 42 x 18in. (106.7 x 45.7cm)
Component (pants length x width across waist): 44 x 19in. (111.8 x 48.3cm)
Other (circumference of waist of pants): 38in. (96.5cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mr. and Mrs. Michael A. Connor, Jr.
Object number1998.6.7a,b
DescriptionCoat (.a): Man's cutaway tail coat of black wool. The front closures are meant to remain open. There are no buttonholes. The long peaked lapel ends at a short (five inches) front edge that angles slightly to the side. A point is created at the bottom of the front edge and the upwardly-angled waist seam. Three buttons of ferrous metal covered with black satin are stitched to each side front edge. Two smaller buttons are stitched to each side front edge just below the lapel. The lower lapel is made of black silk faille. The collar is of black wool. The coat is constructed with a front dart on each side and with the side seams set slightly to the back. A curved side back seam is placed on each side of the center back. The shoulder seams slant down slightly from the top of the shoulder. The tails curve down from the side front waist seam to the pleats and split in the center back. A button, identical to the larger front buttons, is stitched to the bottom of each side back seam where the waist seam and tail pleat meet. Each tail has an inside pocket lined with white fabric. There is also a pocket at each breast, the opening of which is located in the seam of the front facing. The lining material is a satin weave. The coat is lightly padded in the front and on the shoulders. A narrow bias tape is sewn to the center neck. The two-piece sleeves are slightly curved and are finished with a turned-up hem. There is a faux vent on each outer arm seam with two smaller covered buttons stitched on. The sleeves are lined with a white twill.
Pants (.b): Man's wool pants made from striped fabric with a black ground and alternating narrow stripes of white and black and white and grey. The double-pleated trousers have a fly front with four black plastic buttons on the proper right and machine-made buttonholes on the corresponding covered flap. The top of the fly closure is secured with a flat trouser hook of a grey ferrous metal with a corresponding flat bar eye on the proper right. A fifth fly button of a light tan color is stitched to the inside of the proper left, buttoning towards the body through a buttonhole on a flap extending from the fly. The 1 7/8-inch-wide waistband has six narrow belt loops, two on each side front and one on each side back. There is a pair of light tan-colored plastic buttons for suspenders on each side front, and single black plastic buttons stitched close to the center back. The waistband is lined with an cream-colored, twill-woven fabric. A second similar fabric is used for the front facing and the pockets. A watch pocket is set into the waistband seam on the proper right. Each side seam has an exposed in-seam pocket. Each side back has a slash pocket with welt and button closure. The circumference of the leg hem is 19 1/4 inches. The hem is cut so the back is longer that the front, which curves upwards over the vamp of the shoe. An additional strip of fabric is stitched along the back of the hem to protect from wear. The legs are sharply creased, which would be appropriate for twentieth-century pants.
NotesHistorical Notes: Michael F. Conway (1858-1940) was a well-known dance instructor in Hartford, Connecticut. He was one of the first presidents of the American National Association of Dance Masters.Pants (.b): Man's wool pants made from striped fabric with a black ground and alternating narrow stripes of white and black and white and grey. The double-pleated trousers have a fly front with four black plastic buttons on the proper right and machine-made buttonholes on the corresponding covered flap. The top of the fly closure is secured with a flat trouser hook of a grey ferrous metal with a corresponding flat bar eye on the proper right. A fifth fly button of a light tan color is stitched to the inside of the proper left, buttoning towards the body through a buttonhole on a flap extending from the fly. The 1 7/8-inch-wide waistband has six narrow belt loops, two on each side front and one on each side back. There is a pair of light tan-colored plastic buttons for suspenders on each side front, and single black plastic buttons stitched close to the center back. The waistband is lined with an cream-colored, twill-woven fabric. A second similar fabric is used for the front facing and the pockets. A watch pocket is set into the waistband seam on the proper right. Each side seam has an exposed in-seam pocket. Each side back has a slash pocket with welt and button closure. The circumference of the leg hem is 19 1/4 inches. The hem is cut so the back is longer that the front, which curves upwards over the vamp of the shoe. An additional strip of fabric is stitched along the back of the hem to protect from wear. The legs are sharply creased, which would be appropriate for twentieth-century pants.
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