Man's Suit
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Winchester Bennett
(American)
Clothing MakerMade by
Frank A. Corbin
(American)
Date1903
MediumCoat (.a): Hand-stitched and machine-stitched wool and silk, with ferrous metal buttons.
Vest (.b): Hand-stitched and machine-stitched wool and silk, with ferrous metal and plastic buttons and an unidentified metal buckle.
Pants (.c): Hand-stitched and machine-stitched wool, cotton, and silk, with plastic buttons.
DimensionsComponent (coat length x width across shoulders): 40 x 17in. (101.6 x 43.2cm)
Component (vest length x width across shoulders): 21 7/8 x 15 1/4in. (55.6 x 38.7cm)
Component (pants hem to center back length x width across waist): 43 x 21in. (109.2 x 53.3cm)
Other (waist circumference of pants): 42in. (106.7cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. William J. Foote
Object number1986.185.13a-c
DescriptionMan's deep gray wool frock coat (.a). The double-breasted closure has three sets of ferrous metal buttons covered with black thread in a basket-weave effect. The four sets of buttonholes are hand-stitched. The lapels are notched and peaked, high to the neck. The notches are sewn closed. The lapels are faced with a black silk faille. Darts are used, one on each side, at the front for fitting the coat. The side seams are positioned around the back, not directly below the arm. There are curved side back seams, one on each side of the center back seam. The shoulder seams angle down away from the top of the shoulder. Two buttons, identical to those on front, are stitched, one on each side, where the side back seams meet both the waistline seam and the skirt pleats. There is a pocket in each back skirt tail. There are double-welt breast pockets in each side front inside. The coat lining is a black silk faille. The shaped, two-piece sleeves end with a simple, turned-up hem. Top stitching suggests a cuff 3 1/2 inches from the sleeve bottom. Two smaller, thread-covered buttons are stitched, with false buttonholes, to each cuff. The sleeves are lined with a silk satin of a cream-colored background with fine stripes of purple and black. A satin ribbon is stitched across the back of the neck.
Man's deep gray wool vest (.b). The double-breasted closure has four sets of ferrous metal buttons covered with black thread in a basket weave effect. The four sets of buttonholes are hand-stitched. Two black buttons on the proper left side, stitched corresponding to the top and bottom buttons on the outside, are buttoned inside to secure the double-breasted flap. The notched, peaked lapels are stitched down at the peaks. The lapels end at the shoulder seam; there is no collar beyond the lapels. The vented side seams are positioned under the arms. There is a center back seam, notched at the bottom with rounded edges. Small, covered notches are cut, one at each side of the hem in the back. Further fitting is created by the belt of silk faille. The lining is a black satin weave. There are four upturned-welt pockets, one at each breast and one at each waist, on the front of this vest. A short dart can be seen at the lower part of each armscye on the front.
Man's pants (.c) of a fine, tightly woven wool. The fabric is a woven stripe in the following pattern. A very deep gray stripe is set between alternating stripes of black and black with a white center. Each of the three colored stripes are outlined by a single white thread. The whole effect is of a subtle pinstripe. The covered fly front closes with five black plastic buttons. A sixth button is stitched on the proper left inside to further close the fly. All the buttonholes are hand-stitched keyhole shapes. The faced waistband (no separate piece) has a watch pocket located 1 1/2 inches below the edge on the proper right front. There is an in-seam pocket on each side. The last two pockets are slash pockets with narrow double welts, as is the watch pocket, set one on each side of the back, 3 7/8 inches below the waist edge. These back pockets cut across six-inch-long darts that descend from the waist edge. The center back seam is vented for 3/4 of an inch. All the pockets are lined with a white twill-woven cotton. The waistband is faced with a striped silk. There are no suspender buttons; rather, there are six belt loops stitched to the inside of the waist over the facing, with a loop stitched to the center back. The waistband is further faced with a white cotton. The trousers are fairly straight, the front of the leg shorter than the back. Hem circumference is seventeen inches. The hem of each leg is reinforced in the back with a strip of the wool fabric. The center back crotch seam is 19 7/8 inches long. The lower crotch area of each center back has been pieced with a gusset. The trouser legs are creased down the front and back, which is probably original to the garment.
Man's deep gray wool vest (.b). The double-breasted closure has four sets of ferrous metal buttons covered with black thread in a basket weave effect. The four sets of buttonholes are hand-stitched. Two black buttons on the proper left side, stitched corresponding to the top and bottom buttons on the outside, are buttoned inside to secure the double-breasted flap. The notched, peaked lapels are stitched down at the peaks. The lapels end at the shoulder seam; there is no collar beyond the lapels. The vented side seams are positioned under the arms. There is a center back seam, notched at the bottom with rounded edges. Small, covered notches are cut, one at each side of the hem in the back. Further fitting is created by the belt of silk faille. The lining is a black satin weave. There are four upturned-welt pockets, one at each breast and one at each waist, on the front of this vest. A short dart can be seen at the lower part of each armscye on the front.
Man's pants (.c) of a fine, tightly woven wool. The fabric is a woven stripe in the following pattern. A very deep gray stripe is set between alternating stripes of black and black with a white center. Each of the three colored stripes are outlined by a single white thread. The whole effect is of a subtle pinstripe. The covered fly front closes with five black plastic buttons. A sixth button is stitched on the proper left inside to further close the fly. All the buttonholes are hand-stitched keyhole shapes. The faced waistband (no separate piece) has a watch pocket located 1 1/2 inches below the edge on the proper right front. There is an in-seam pocket on each side. The last two pockets are slash pockets with narrow double welts, as is the watch pocket, set one on each side of the back, 3 7/8 inches below the waist edge. These back pockets cut across six-inch-long darts that descend from the waist edge. The center back seam is vented for 3/4 of an inch. All the pockets are lined with a white twill-woven cotton. The waistband is faced with a striped silk. There are no suspender buttons; rather, there are six belt loops stitched to the inside of the waist over the facing, with a loop stitched to the center back. The waistband is further faced with a white cotton. The trousers are fairly straight, the front of the leg shorter than the back. Hem circumference is seventeen inches. The hem of each leg is reinforced in the back with a strip of the wool fabric. The center back crotch seam is 19 7/8 inches long. The lower crotch area of each center back has been pieced with a gusset. The trouser legs are creased down the front and back, which is probably original to the garment.
Status
Not on view
Object/Object
