Bonnet
MillinerMade by
Unknown
Date1858-1865
MediumHand-stitched silk with faux flowers and foliage of fabric and wire, net, loosely-woven lining and highly starched cotton as support, silk ribbons, and cardboard (may not be original) for stiffener
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (height x width x depth): 12 x 8 x 6 1/4in. (30.5 x 20.3 x 15.9cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Elisha H. Cooper
Object number1957.49.4
DescriptionWoman's bonnet of brown silk with decorations made from faux flowers of blue fabric, leaves in shades of gray and pinks, and wire tendrils combined with numerous gatherings of the silk over fine wire. The brim of the bonnet angles sharply away from the face, measuring approximately three inches wide at the center top. The top side of the brim is shaped by nine rows of casings through which wire, of varying thicknesses, has been threaded and the brown silk gathered over. The intersection between brim and crown is finished by turning under the silk on the brim and stitching on top of the crown, forming a ruffle. The brown silk is folded over the edge of the brim, gathered and stitched, forming an edging approximately 5/8 inch wide. The rest of the underside is lined with a lighter brown silk. Faux leaves in shades of grey/green/mauve with some kind of flower in pink/yellow decorate the underside in a large display. The brim extends below the line of the back of the crown, ending in two points that curve back and up to the base of the neck. The brown silk ties, 2 7/8 inches wide, are sewn to these points, extending approximately 23 inches. A second decoration with faux leaves, accompanied by blue-fabric flowers and wire tendrils, is attached all around the intersection between brim and crown. All of the leaves are attached to wires, making them easily repositioned. The crown measures 4 1/2 inches deep at the center top. The sides are covered with a flat layer of the brown silk. The back of the crown is an oval shape measuring 3 5/8 inches wide and 5 1/2 inches high. The back is decorated with sixteen rows of vertical casings into which fine wire has been threaded and the silk gathered. These rows are approximately 1/4 inch apart. The crown is supported along the sides with several layers of loosely-woven cotton fabric that has been heavily starched. This can be seen on the sides as well as at the back. Above this has been stitched several pieces of cardboard; one oval to support the back and the other a rectangle to shape the top of the crown. These pieces are probably not original to the bonnet. An additional lining of loosely-woven fabric has been stitched to the inside of the crown along the sides. The bottom edge of the bonnet is stiffened with wire and bound with an edging of silk. A curtain is attached above the bottom, flat along the side and pleated under the back. It is lined with a layer of net.
Status
Not on view
