Bonnet
MillinerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1860-1865
MediumHand-stitched silk with laces, wire, silk ribbons, starched cotton, buckram, and faux flowers
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (height x width x depth): 12 1/2 x 7 3/4 x 7in. (31.8 x 19.7 x 17.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mariette Newman Fitch
Object number1952.69.54
DescriptionWoman's bonnet of brown silk with black and blonde lace trims and a sheer veil of brown. The brim is trimmed underneath by a gathering of blonde lace, loops and bows made from brown or cream-colored ribbon and faux fabric flowers with buds and leaves. The brim is lined with brown silk. The front corners or ends of the brim extend below the bottom of the curtain (or "bavolet"), ending in a point. The brim and crown are treated as one piece: both are decorated with narrow bands of silk shirred over reeds in casings that support the shape of the bonnet. The spacing, number of reeds in each group, and use of an additional decorative folded edge on each band seems arbitrary, continuing to the back of the bonnet for eight inches. The back of the bonnet, rounded at the top and pleated along the flat bottom, measures 4 1/2 inches tall by 3 1/2 inches wide. Two overlapping pieces of black net lace, 2 1/2 inches wide, are stitched in a curve from the top corners of the curtain over the top of the crown. The three-inch-wide curtain has been folded, pleated, and applied to the bottom edge of the bonnet. It is decorated at the bottom with a darker, more reddish-colored fabric and edged with black lace. It is lined with black net. The curtain is attached to the inner curve of the bonnet's bottom. Underneath can be seen a binding of dark brown silk.
The inside of the bonnet is stiffened with a starched, brown cotton and partially lined with black silk. The ties, attached to the brim points, are 3 1/4-inch-wide ribbons of a brown and cream geometric brocade pattern. The tie ends are cut at an angle.
A sheer veil of reddish-brown gauze is stitched to the entire edge of the brim. This square of fabric is edged along the bottom with narrow stripes of satin weave and the leno weave; the rest is a the gauze fabric, also known as leno weave. The veil is probably original and could be worn either over the bonnet or over the face.
The inside of the bonnet is stiffened with a starched, brown cotton and partially lined with black silk. The ties, attached to the brim points, are 3 1/4-inch-wide ribbons of a brown and cream geometric brocade pattern. The tie ends are cut at an angle.
A sheer veil of reddish-brown gauze is stitched to the entire edge of the brim. This square of fabric is edged along the bottom with narrow stripes of satin weave and the leno weave; the rest is a the gauze fabric, also known as leno weave. The veil is probably original and could be worn either over the bonnet or over the face.
Status
Not on view
