Woman's Suit
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mary Elizabeth Smith
(American, 1871 - 1925)
Clothing MakerMade by
A. McClunie
Dateabout 1903-1905
MediumJacket is wool, silk, and beads; bodice is wool, cotton lace, silk chiffon, boning, wool wadding, silk lining, metal hooks and eyes, and beads; skirt is wool fabric, metal snaps, and silk. Machine-sewn with hand-stitched embellishments.
DimensionsBodice (center front length x shoulder width, including "wings"): 23 x 18in. (58.4 x 45.7cm)
Primary Dimensions (length x width): 31 1/2 x 15in. (80 x 38.1cm)
Skirt (length x hem circumference): 40 x 232in. (101.6 x 589.3cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Charles Miller
Object number2000.145.0a-c
DescriptionThree-piece woman's suit:
The jacket is made of wedgwood blue napped wool, with a cape collar trimmed with heavy bobbin lace. The collar has long extensions in front. Two similar tail-like extensions are on the back of the collar, along with two double tie-shaped extensions of the blue wool, decorated with black braid in floral shapes; white tape, white embroidery, black bead and black velvet ribbon embellishments. The sleeves are long, with fullness just above the cuffs. The cuffs and the outer edges of the jacket are decorated with a row of white braid and black velvet diamonds embroidered with white thread and black beads. Two extensions of the blue fabric, similar to those seen on the back, appear at the neck opening. Hook and eye closure.
The bodice is made of coarse needle-run filet lace, overlaid with decorative strips of blue wool fabric with black velvet diamonds embellished with white embroidery and black beads. The high collar is wired and decorated with narrow black velvet ribbon worked with a white cross stitch. A tassel of the velvet ribbons, beads, and a black velvet diamond hangs from the center of the neck edge. The bodice is constructed with a "pouter pigeon" front, V-waist, and sleeves with fullness just above the cuffs. The tops of the sleeves are decorated by narrow "wings" of blue wool, stitched at the shoulderline. The lower half of the bodice is decorated by blue wool fabric strips arranged like a fence, with black velvet diamonds on the upper section of the "posts." Under the lace of the bodice is a layer of cream-colored silk chiffon, then a layer of silk satin. The bust is stuffed with wool wadding. There is boning in all the vertical seams. The back is cut much higher than the front to accomodate the fashionable "S" curved figure. The bodice has a hook and eye closure at center back; the positions of the hooks and eyes are alternated to create a more secure closure.
The skirt is made of the wedgwood blue wool skirt, and has a waist yoke. Below the yoke, the skirt is arranged in pleats, sewn-down to the knee, then allowed to open, creating a flare in the lower skirt. The hem is edged in tape. The opening is at center back, with snaps on a placket.
The jacket is made of wedgwood blue napped wool, with a cape collar trimmed with heavy bobbin lace. The collar has long extensions in front. Two similar tail-like extensions are on the back of the collar, along with two double tie-shaped extensions of the blue wool, decorated with black braid in floral shapes; white tape, white embroidery, black bead and black velvet ribbon embellishments. The sleeves are long, with fullness just above the cuffs. The cuffs and the outer edges of the jacket are decorated with a row of white braid and black velvet diamonds embroidered with white thread and black beads. Two extensions of the blue fabric, similar to those seen on the back, appear at the neck opening. Hook and eye closure.
The bodice is made of coarse needle-run filet lace, overlaid with decorative strips of blue wool fabric with black velvet diamonds embellished with white embroidery and black beads. The high collar is wired and decorated with narrow black velvet ribbon worked with a white cross stitch. A tassel of the velvet ribbons, beads, and a black velvet diamond hangs from the center of the neck edge. The bodice is constructed with a "pouter pigeon" front, V-waist, and sleeves with fullness just above the cuffs. The tops of the sleeves are decorated by narrow "wings" of blue wool, stitched at the shoulderline. The lower half of the bodice is decorated by blue wool fabric strips arranged like a fence, with black velvet diamonds on the upper section of the "posts." Under the lace of the bodice is a layer of cream-colored silk chiffon, then a layer of silk satin. The bust is stuffed with wool wadding. There is boning in all the vertical seams. The back is cut much higher than the front to accomodate the fashionable "S" curved figure. The bodice has a hook and eye closure at center back; the positions of the hooks and eyes are alternated to create a more secure closure.
The skirt is made of the wedgwood blue wool skirt, and has a waist yoke. Below the yoke, the skirt is arranged in pleats, sewn-down to the knee, then allowed to open, creating a flare in the lower skirt. The hem is edged in tape. The opening is at center back, with snaps on a placket.
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