Dress
Original OwnerPossibly originally owned by
Jane Shepherd
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1895
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with buckram, ferrous metal and non-ferrous metal boning, and non-ferrous metal hooks and eyes
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 19 1/4 x 11in. (48.9 x 27.9cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 43 1/4 x 112 1/2in. (109.9 x 285.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Karl D. Warner
Object number1998.89.1a,b
DescriptionWoman's day dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of black silk brocade, woven with a design of leaves on a ribbed background. The bodice has a two-inch-high standing band collar. The waistline is encircled by a strip of horizontally pleated black satin; the waistline is pointed at center front and center back. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves are extremely full at the top; they are closely gathered into the shoulder and pleated into a seam around the top of the elbow. Below the elbow, the sleeve is tight and constructed of two pieces; it is gathered at the elbow into the outside seam to provide ease for bending the arm. The seam is open for 2 1/4 inches along the outside of the wrist, and closes with two hooks and thread-covered eyes. The center front opening of the bodice fastens with hooks and eyes; a length of the black silk extends behind the opening to disguise any gaping. The bodice is fitted with two 8 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the front, while the back is constructed of six pattern patterns to achieve a close fit. All darts and seams are boned. Plain black cotton lines the bodice, and all seam allowances are bound with black silk tape. A black grosgrain ribbon petersham encircles the waist.
The skirt is smoothly fitted into the grosgrain waistband across the front and over the hips, while the center back is full with layered knife pleats. The skirt is unembellished. It is lined with plain black cotton, and the bottom edge is bound with black velvet. A scalloped black silk ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hem. Two pairs of cotton tapes inside the skirt tie to control the skirt fullness to the back. The center back opening extends 9 1/2 inches and fastens with two hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistband.
The skirt is smoothly fitted into the grosgrain waistband across the front and over the hips, while the center back is full with layered knife pleats. The skirt is unembellished. It is lined with plain black cotton, and the bottom edge is bound with black velvet. A scalloped black silk ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hem. Two pairs of cotton tapes inside the skirt tie to control the skirt fullness to the back. The center back opening extends 9 1/2 inches and fastens with two hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistband.
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