Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by a member of the
Hofer family
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1905-1910
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched wool and cotton, with silk/cotton cording, non-ferrous metal hooks and eyes, ferrous and non-ferrous metal boning, silk and wood tassels, and unidentified stiffening in the collar
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 21 x 13in. (53.3 x 33cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 40 1/4 x 143 1/4in. (102.2 x 363.9cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Jane Eleanor Hofer Kettendorf
Object number1994.59.41a,b
DescriptionWoman's dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and a skirt (.b), of black wool crepe, trimmed with black silk and appliqués of chemical lace. The bodice has a round yoke continuing into a high, standing collar made of strips of bias-cut black silk hand-stitched together with faggoting; French knots are worked along the center of each strip of silk. The collar is wired to stand up. The top edge is trimmed with an appliqué of black chemical lace and a white silk cord. Black chemical lace also trims the bottom edge of the yoke. The fabric of the bodice is pleated into the bottom of the yoke, and into the slightly dipped waist, creating a full front. Four rows of the bias-cut black silk strips are stitched vertically down the bodice front, with the ends alternating in curls or points, from each of which dangles a silk-thread-covered ball tassel. The long sleeves have six rows of tucks around the top, between the shoulder and elbow, while the lower half, which tapers to a tight wrist, is made of the strips of black silk sewn together with the fagotting stitch. A row of the black chemical lace appliqué is stitched around the mid-forearm and around the wrist opening, which is also edged with white silk cord. The bodice opens down the center back and fastens with hooks and eyes. It is fitted with four shallow 10 1/2-inch-long darts in the front, while the back is constructed of three pattern pieces on each side to achieve a close fit. All seams and darts are boned. The bodice is lined with plain, black cotton. The opening edges and bottom edge are bound with bias-cut black silk.
The gored skirt is smoothly fitted all around the 3/4-inch-wide waistband. The center back seam opens into an inverted box pleat below the 10 1/2-inch-long opening, which fastens with hooks and eyes. The other seams open into two knife pleats sixteen inches from the bottom edge, creating flare below the knees. The seams are covered with strips of bias-cut black silk, with the ends curled up and embellished with ball tassels like the decoration of the bodice. The skirt is unlined. The seams are bound with black silk.
The gored skirt is smoothly fitted all around the 3/4-inch-wide waistband. The center back seam opens into an inverted box pleat below the 10 1/2-inch-long opening, which fastens with hooks and eyes. The other seams open into two knife pleats sixteen inches from the bottom edge, creating flare below the knees. The seams are covered with strips of bias-cut black silk, with the ends curled up and embellished with ball tassels like the decoration of the bodice. The skirt is unlined. The seams are bound with black silk.
Status
Not on view
