Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1898-1900
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with machine-made lace, cotton wadding, a ferrous metal buckle, hooks and eyes, horn (?) boning, and glass beads
DimensionsBodice (length x width between shoulders): 14 x 15 1/2in. (35.6 x 39.4cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 44 x 123 1/2in. (111.8 x 313.7cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Winthrop A. Haviland
Object number1983.8.12a,b
DescriptionWoman's dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of black silk satin covered with black machine-made Chantilly lace. The bodice has a wide, square neckline filled with a width of very fine and sheer black silk gathered on a drawstring. The lace pattern of the bodice is outlined with black beads, and a strip of beadwork with dangling swags of beads extends across the base of the neckline, hooking at the proper left armscye seam. The waistline is edged with wide, black satin ribbon which has been slightly twisted, ending in a large bow which hooks to the left of the center front opening. The opening fastens with hooks and eyes. Multiple loops of black satin ribbon cover the bodice shoulders. The elbow-length sleeves are made of ruched black satin. The arm openings are trimmed with black beadwork appliqués with bead tassels. The bodice is fitted with two 7 1/4-inch-long darts on each side of the front, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. A pad of cotton wadding is stitched behind the proper left shoulder, probably to correct a figure imperfection of the original wearer. The lining fabric is plain black cotton. All darts and seams are boned. The seam allowances are bound with dark brown silk tape. A petersham is stitched inside the center back and fastens around the waist with a metal buckle. A safety-pin-like mechanism is pinned at the center back for attaching to the skirt.
The skirt is completely covered with the lace. It has a deep flounce, slightly higher than mid-way down the skirt; the seam is covered by gathered black satin ribbon. The skirt is fitted smoothly across the front and around the hips. It is slightly gathered on either side of the center back opening, which extends eleven inches and fastens with hooks and eyes at the waistband. The black satin skirt, under the lace, is bordered around the bottom with 5 3/4-inch-wide lace. The bottom edge is bound with black velvet and lined for a depth of 11 1/2 inches with black faille.
The skirt is completely covered with the lace. It has a deep flounce, slightly higher than mid-way down the skirt; the seam is covered by gathered black satin ribbon. The skirt is fitted smoothly across the front and around the hips. It is slightly gathered on either side of the center back opening, which extends eleven inches and fastens with hooks and eyes at the waistband. The black satin skirt, under the lace, is bordered around the bottom with 5 3/4-inch-wide lace. The bottom edge is bound with black velvet and lined for a depth of 11 1/2 inches with black faille.
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