Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Hilda Welch
(American, born 1879)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1895
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with machine-made chemical lace, brass hooks and eyes, and unidentified boning (possibly baleen)
DimensionsBodice (length x width between shoulders): 16 x 13in. (40.6 x 33cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 42 1/2 x 120in. (108 x 304.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Cornelia Gross
Object number1984.56.8a,b
DescriptionWoman's evening dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of gold-colored silk satin with a narrow woven stripe. The bodice has a low, round neckline controlled by a drawstring, edged with a deep flounce of machine-made chemical lace, which extends in tabs to the waistline at the center front. The bodice is gathered on a drawstring across the front waistline, and gathered again into the neckline. The back is similarly gathered from waistline to neckline, though not on a drawstring. The very full sleeves are elbow-length, where they are gathered into a self-fabric band which ties in a knot with pointed ends extending below the sleeve. The waistline is covered by self-fabric gathered in a five-inch-wide cumberbund; it fastens with hooks and thread-covered eyes on the proper left side. It is decorated by a knot at the center back.
The bodice lining is plain, white cotton; it is separate from the fashion fabric in the front panels, except where it is sewn into the neckline seam. The lining extends only partway up the bodice. There is an additional lining stitched into the neckline and tacked along the bottom edge to the center back and side seams, extending slightly more than half-way down the bodice (about 5 1/4 inches from the center back neckline), so that the entire bodice is lined, though not in the usual manner. The bodice lining is fitted in the separate front panels with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts, with the fashion fabric gathered on a drawstring over it. All seams and darts are boned, and seam allowances are bound with silk tape. There is grosgrain ribbon petersham stitched to the inside back of the waist; it has a metal buckle to fasten it around the waist. Three metal eyes are stitched at the center back on the petersham to fasten to the skirt. The center front opening fastens in the lining with hooks and eyes (though there are eyes on both sides without corresponding hooks), covered by the fashion fabric which fastens with snaps.
The skirt is smoothly fitted by the use of darts across the front, while the back is gathered. The skirt is plain, except for a self-fabric ruffle around the bottom. The lining is loosely-woven, plain white cotton, with an additional lining for nineteen inches around the bottom of plain, cream-colored silk. There are two scalloped ruffles of the silk lining fabric stitched inside the hem (a "balayeuse"). A stiff cord is inserted around the lower edge to help give shape to the skirt. The center back opening extends eleven inches and fastens with hooks and eyes and one metal snap.
The bodice lining is plain, white cotton; it is separate from the fashion fabric in the front panels, except where it is sewn into the neckline seam. The lining extends only partway up the bodice. There is an additional lining stitched into the neckline and tacked along the bottom edge to the center back and side seams, extending slightly more than half-way down the bodice (about 5 1/4 inches from the center back neckline), so that the entire bodice is lined, though not in the usual manner. The bodice lining is fitted in the separate front panels with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts, with the fashion fabric gathered on a drawstring over it. All seams and darts are boned, and seam allowances are bound with silk tape. There is grosgrain ribbon petersham stitched to the inside back of the waist; it has a metal buckle to fasten it around the waist. Three metal eyes are stitched at the center back on the petersham to fasten to the skirt. The center front opening fastens in the lining with hooks and eyes (though there are eyes on both sides without corresponding hooks), covered by the fashion fabric which fastens with snaps.
The skirt is smoothly fitted by the use of darts across the front, while the back is gathered. The skirt is plain, except for a self-fabric ruffle around the bottom. The lining is loosely-woven, plain white cotton, with an additional lining for nineteen inches around the bottom of plain, cream-colored silk. There are two scalloped ruffles of the silk lining fabric stitched inside the hem (a "balayeuse"). A stiff cord is inserted around the lower edge to help give shape to the skirt. The center back opening extends eleven inches and fastens with hooks and eyes and one metal snap.
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