Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1897
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with non-ferrous metal boning, thread-covered wooden buttons, and machine-made cotton lace
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 19 1/4 x 13in. (48.9 x 33cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 41 x 148in. (104.1 x 375.9cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Jane Yeomans Britton
Object number1981.130.2a,b
DescriptionWoman's dress consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of burgundy silk satin with a very fine woven rib. The bodice has a high, round neckline with a two-inch-high band collar, folded into three horizontal pleats. The collar wraps around the neck and fastens with hooks and eyes at the center back, under a self-fabric bow. Machine-made, tan-colored lace is pleated and basted around the collar from the inside, so that it folds over the edge of the collar. A jabot of similar lace is gathered and basted at the top of the bodice's center front opening. This opening fastens with seventeen thread-covered ball buttons. The waistline is bound with a fold of self-fabric, extending beyond the opening with a short tab terminating with a bow. A length of self-fabric extends from the button side of the opening so that the gap of the buttonholes do not show. The fullness at the top of the each sleeve is folded into pleats up the top of the shoulder and stitched in place. The fullness is then folded and tacked in place to create the appearance of two layers of puffs on the front and the back of the arm. The sleeve is tight from above the elbow to the wrist, which is edged with black machine-made lace. The waist is slightly dipped at the center front and center back. The center back is decorated with a self-fabric bow. Brown cotton woven in a damask floral pattern is used for the lining. Two 7 1/2-inch-long darts are stitched on either side of the front opening, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. All seams and darts are boned.
The skirt is unembellished. It is stitched smoothly around the 1 1/4-inch-wide waistband to the center back, where it is gathered. The lining is plain, plum-colored cotton. There is a pleated ruffle of the dress fabric stitched inside the hem of the back of the skirt. The hem is edged with velvet of a matching color, and there is a cording inserted around the hem for extra stiffness. Two strips of elastic are stitched across the inside of the back of the skirt to control the fullness. The center back opening extends 10 1/2 inches and fastens with two hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other. One hook and eye set has been moved from the original position in order to make the skirt waist smaller.
The skirt is unembellished. It is stitched smoothly around the 1 1/4-inch-wide waistband to the center back, where it is gathered. The lining is plain, plum-colored cotton. There is a pleated ruffle of the dress fabric stitched inside the hem of the back of the skirt. The hem is edged with velvet of a matching color, and there is a cording inserted around the hem for extra stiffness. Two strips of elastic are stitched across the inside of the back of the skirt to control the fullness. The center back opening extends 10 1/2 inches and fastens with two hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other. One hook and eye set has been moved from the original position in order to make the skirt waist smaller.
Status
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