Dress
Original OwnerPossibly originally owned by
Lucy Mather Brace
(American, 1864 - 1951)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1897-1898
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with brass hooks and eyes, and baleen (probably) boning
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 17 1/2 x 12 1/2in. (44.5 x 31.8cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 48 x 115 1/2in. (121.9 x 293.4cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Seth P. Holcombe and Mrs. Gilbert A. Wicke
Object number1981.26.8a,b
DescriptionWoman's formal dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of cream-colored silk woven with alternating satin and openwork stripes. The bodice has a high, round neckline with a narrow standing band collar, decorated with a self-fabric rosette on the proper right side. There appears originally to have been a detachable collar or some other form of embellishment, as there are buttonhole-stitched eyes and bits of thread indicating that something was meant to hook in place around the neckline. The fabric of the bodice is pleated at the waistline and shoulder at both front and back, with the fullness released in between. The waist is circumscribed by a 5 3/8-inch-wide cumberbund, pleated horizontally around the lower edge, which hooks along the proper left side. The long sleeves have double puffs at the top, and are tight from above the elbow to the wrist. The wrist opening is edged with a picot ribbon. The center front opening fastens with hooks and eyes. The bodice has two 7 1/2-inch-long darts on each side of the front, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. The lining fabric is plain, cream-colored silk. All darts and seams are boned. A petersham encircles the waist on the inside of the bodice.
The skirt is smoothly fitted into the narrow waistband, using darts, around the front and sides. It is made full at the center back by layered knife pleats on either side of the skirt opening. The bottom edge of the skirt has a 2 1/2-inch-wide cream-colored satin ribbon, which is box-pleated and stitched down the middle; the edges of the ribbon are then pulled together at intervals to form a decorative ruffled effect. The skirt is lined with plain silk, like the bodice. A scalloped ruffle of this silk is stitched inside the hemline (a "balayeuse"). The center back opening extends 13 1/2 inches and fastens with two large hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistline, and with a latching hook and eye about midway down the opening.
The skirt is smoothly fitted into the narrow waistband, using darts, around the front and sides. It is made full at the center back by layered knife pleats on either side of the skirt opening. The bottom edge of the skirt has a 2 1/2-inch-wide cream-colored satin ribbon, which is box-pleated and stitched down the middle; the edges of the ribbon are then pulled together at intervals to form a decorative ruffled effect. The skirt is lined with plain silk, like the bodice. A scalloped ruffle of this silk is stitched inside the hemline (a "balayeuse"). The center back opening extends 13 1/2 inches and fastens with two large hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistline, and with a latching hook and eye about midway down the opening.
Status
Not on view
