Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1897
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with brass hooks and eyes, ferrous metal hooks and eyes, bone (probably) buttons, and unidentified boning (possibly baleen)
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 19 1/2 x 13 3/4in. (49.5 x 34.9cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 48 x 133in. (121.9 x 337.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineBequest of George Dudley Seymour
Object number1945.1.1115a,b
DescriptionWoman's day dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of maroon silk satin with broad plain-woven stripes of thin white and black stripes. (There are extra fabric scraps with this dress: ".c".) The bodice has a two-inch-high standing band collar made of the maroon satin, which wraps around the neck and fastens with hooks and eyes at the back, under a self-fabric rosette. The fabric over the chest area of the bodice is arranged with the stripes running vertically, and it is gathered into the neckline. The fabric over the bust and waist is stitched with the stripes running diagonally, with the proper right side overlapping the left and fastening to the left side seam with hooks and eyes. Two self-fabric rosettes decorate this juncture. Under this area of overlap, the bodice fastens with hooks and eyes up the center front. The waist is slightly dipped at the center front and more strongly dipped at the center back; the bottom edge is piped. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves are full from the shoulder to where the fabric is gathered into a seam around the elbow; from the elbow to the wrist, the sleeve is tight. The bodice is fitted with two 8 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front opening, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. All seams and darts are boned. Plain, light tan cotton is used for the lining; seam allowances are turned to the inside and stitched closed. A cream-colored silk grosgrain petersham encircles the waist. Buttonholes are worked on tabs extending from a few seams in back for attaching the skirt.
The skirt is smoothly fitted around the front and hips, with very narrow pleats taken every few inches for ease; the back of the skirt is gathered for a few inches on either side of the center back opening. The skirt is unornamented. It is lined with plain, tan cotton. There is a pocket in the proper right side seam in the back of the skirt. Cotton twill tapes tie together across the inside of the skirt to keep the fullness to the back. The hem is edged with velvet for protection against wear. A maroon silk scalloped ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hem. The center back opening extends eleven inches and fastens with two large hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other. Three dyed bone (?) buttons are stitched to the back of the waistband for attaching to the bodice.
The skirt is smoothly fitted around the front and hips, with very narrow pleats taken every few inches for ease; the back of the skirt is gathered for a few inches on either side of the center back opening. The skirt is unornamented. It is lined with plain, tan cotton. There is a pocket in the proper right side seam in the back of the skirt. Cotton twill tapes tie together across the inside of the skirt to keep the fullness to the back. The hem is edged with velvet for protection against wear. A maroon silk scalloped ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hem. The center back opening extends eleven inches and fastens with two large hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other. Three dyed bone (?) buttons are stitched to the back of the waistband for attaching to the bodice.
Status
On view
