Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Jennie Holcomb Yale
(American, 1866 - 1949)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1894-1898
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched wool/cotton, cotton, and silk, with ferrous metal and non-ferrous metal hooks and eyes, non-ferrous metal wire, unidentified boning, glass beads, and non-ferrous metal sequins
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 18 3/4 x 14in. (47.6 x 35.6cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 41 x 140in. (104.1 x 355.6cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Elizabeth Yale Hall
Object number1950.16.12a,b
DescriptionWoman's day dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and a skirt (.b), made of a plain-woven wool/cotton fabric of a lavenderish-tan color, brocaded with scattered small floral motifs in orange and green. The center front and side panels of the bodice are made of dark brown cotton velveteen, edged with strips of irridescent green-black sequins and beads. The center front is overlaid with a pouchy panel of black netting embroidered with vertical lines of beads and sequins. The 2 1/4-inch-high standing collar is also overlaid with this netting, with the lines of beads and sequins worked horizontally. The collar wraps around the neck and hooks at the center back, under a bow of the beaded netting. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves are very full on the top half of the arm, being closely gathered into the shoulder and into a seam around the elbow; the lower half of the sleeve is tight to the wrist, which has a cuff of dark brown velveteen edged with the strip of beads and sequins. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front opening (which fastens with hooks and eyes), while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. All darts and seams are boned, plus there is additional boning between the side seams and outermost darts of the front. The bodice is lined with plain brown cotton. All seam allowances are bound with white silk tape. A cream-colored grosgrain petersham encircles the waist. There are ten hooks mounted around the waist for fastening to the skirt.
The gored skirt is fitted smoothly into the narrow waistband by using darts across the front and around the hips, while the center back is box-pleated. The bottom of the skirt is bordered with a four-inch-wide band of the dark brown velvet. The back panel of the skirt is stiffened with an interlining, probably of starched cotton, and the bottom edge all around the skirt is wired for stiffness. The skirt is lined with plain brown cotton. Strips of black cotton sewn across the pleats on the inside of the skirt control the fullness towards the back. Metal eyes are stitched along the top edge of the waistband for fastening to the bodice. Two cotton tapes for hanging the skirt for storage are also stitched at the top of the waistband (one end has pulled free on each tape).
The gored skirt is fitted smoothly into the narrow waistband by using darts across the front and around the hips, while the center back is box-pleated. The bottom of the skirt is bordered with a four-inch-wide band of the dark brown velvet. The back panel of the skirt is stiffened with an interlining, probably of starched cotton, and the bottom edge all around the skirt is wired for stiffness. The skirt is lined with plain brown cotton. Strips of black cotton sewn across the pleats on the inside of the skirt control the fullness towards the back. Metal eyes are stitched along the top edge of the waistband for fastening to the bodice. Two cotton tapes for hanging the skirt for storage are also stitched at the top of the waistband (one end has pulled free on each tape).
Status
Not on view
