Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Jennie Holcomb Yale
(American, 1866 - 1949)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1895
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched wool/silk and cotton, with machine-made cotton chemical lace, ferrous metal buttons, non-ferrous and ferrous metal hooks and eyes, and baleen (probably) boning
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 19 x 12 1/8in. (48.3 x 30.8cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 41 x 143in. (104.1 x 363.2cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Elizabeth Yale Hall
Object number1950.16.19a-b
DescriptionWoman's day dress, consisting of a (a) bodice and (b) skirt, made of a shot silk/wool fabric with a brown warp and black weft. The bodice has a 2 3/8-inch-high standing band collar, covered with cream-colored chemical lace and trimmed along both edges with chocolate brown velvet. The collar wraps around the neck and fastens with hooks and eyes at center back under a large bow of the brown velvet. The center front panel, extending from the neckline to the pointed waistline, is similarly made of the chemical lace, flanked by tapered bands of the velvet, which are ornamented with large cut steel buttons from the bust to the shoulder. The center front bodice opening, which fastens with hooks and eyes, is covered by the chemical lace panel, which also fastens with hooks and eyes under the velvet band on the proper left side. The bodice back has a similar lace panel flanked by bands of velvet from the pointed waistline to the shoulders. The large, leg-o'-mutton sleeves are gathered into the armscye, which rests at the natural shoulderline. They taper to a velvet cuff at the narrow wrist. The cuff is pointed on the front and back of the lower sleeve, and fastens with a hook and eye. The bodice front is fitted with two nine-inch-long darts on each side, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. All darts and seams are boned, as are the side panels between seams and the left edge of the opening. A petersham stitched to the inside center back fastens around the waist with two hooks and eyes. The bodice is lined with tan twill-woven cotton; the bodice bottom edge is additionally lined with a 1 3/4-inch strip of orange-brown silk, which is also used to line the center front panel.
The gored skirt is smoothly fitted into the waistband across the front and over the hips. It is deeply pleated across the back. Both the front and back of the skirt are decorated with two tapered strips of the dark brown velvet, ending in points at the hem. The skirt is lined with brown glazed cotton; the bottom is additionally lined with a 6 1/2-inch width of tan-colored cotton, and a strip of brown velvet. The opening is to the right of the center back, set alongside the decorative velvet band. It extends 10 inches and fastens with a hook and eye at the waistband.
The gored skirt is smoothly fitted into the waistband across the front and over the hips. It is deeply pleated across the back. Both the front and back of the skirt are decorated with two tapered strips of the dark brown velvet, ending in points at the hem. The skirt is lined with brown glazed cotton; the bottom is additionally lined with a 6 1/2-inch width of tan-colored cotton, and a strip of brown velvet. The opening is to the right of the center back, set alongside the decorative velvet band. It extends 10 inches and fastens with a hook and eye at the waistband.
Status
Not on view
