Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1893-1894
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with machine-made cotton lace, brass hooks and eyes, glass beads, and unidentified boning
DimensionsBodice (length x width across shoulders): 18 x 12in. (45.7 x 30.5cm)
Component (chemisette length x width): 12 x 12in. (30.5 x 30.5cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 46 1/4 x 104in. (117.5 x 264.2cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineConnecticut Museum of Culture and History collection
Object number1986.234.0a-c
DescriptionWoman's dress with separate chemisette to convert it from day to evening wear. The dress, consisting of a bodice (.a), chemisette (.b), and skirt (.c), is made of silk woven with satin stripes in pale green and cream. The bodice has a low, round neckline embellished with an 8 3/4-inch-deep flounce (a "bertha") of machine-made chemical lace. The elbow-length sleeves are full, being gathered into the shoulder and into a bias-cut band of self-fabric, which is pulled up inside the sleeve by the sleeve lining, which is slightly shorter than the sleeve itself. The sleeve opening also has the deep flounce of lace like the neckline. The bodice waistline is pointed at center front and center back; it is trimmed with an 1/2-inch-wide edging and 5 1/4-inch-long fringe of glass beads that shift from a silver core to clear outside. The bodice front is closely pleated along each side of the center front opening, with the pleats fanned out slightly and the fullness released over the bust. The opening fastens with hooks and eyes. The bodice is fitted with two nine-inch-long darts on each side of the front, while the back is constructed of six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. Each seam and dart is boned. There is a petersham stitched across the back to hook around the waist. The lining material is plain, white cotton. All seam allowances are bound with tan silk tape.
The chemisette is made of the white cotton lining fabric, overlaid across most of the front and back with the fashion fabric. It has a 2 1/8-inch-high standing collar covered with chemical lace. The center front, center back, and shoulders have vertical rows of ruched self-fabric alternating with strips of chemical lace over flat sections of self-fabric. The center front opening fastens with hooks and eyes.
The skirt is smooth across the front, being fitted with darts, and has layered knife pleats at the center back. There is no waistband, but there is a narrow strip of bias-cut self-fabric along the inside edge for stability. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with three tiers of self-fabric ruffles. Plain, white cotton lines the skirt, and a scalloped silk ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hemline. The center back opening extends 10 1/2 inches and fastens with two hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistline. There are two silk tape loops stitched inside the waistline edge for hanging the skirt .
The chemisette is made of the white cotton lining fabric, overlaid across most of the front and back with the fashion fabric. It has a 2 1/8-inch-high standing collar covered with chemical lace. The center front, center back, and shoulders have vertical rows of ruched self-fabric alternating with strips of chemical lace over flat sections of self-fabric. The center front opening fastens with hooks and eyes.
The skirt is smooth across the front, being fitted with darts, and has layered knife pleats at the center back. There is no waistband, but there is a narrow strip of bias-cut self-fabric along the inside edge for stability. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with three tiers of self-fabric ruffles. Plain, white cotton lines the skirt, and a scalloped silk ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hemline. The center back opening extends 10 1/2 inches and fastens with two hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistline. There are two silk tape loops stitched inside the waistline edge for hanging the skirt .
Status
Not on view
