Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mary Ellen Pike
(American, born 1833)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1894
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with non-ferrous metal hooks and eyes, and unidentified boning (probably baleen)
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width across sleeves): 20 1/4 x 23in. (51.4 x 58.4cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 120 1/2 x 51in. (306.1 x 129.5cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. E. C. Blake
Object number1953.38.0a,b
DescriptionWoman's dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and a skirt (.b), of green velvet and figured satin woven in a bow design in white and black on sage green. The bodice has a 1 3/4-inch-high standing band collar of the green velvet, edged along the top with a double row of piping in the figured satin. The dress has full sleeves, gathered into two large puffs, and tapering to a tight wrist. Over the sleeves are gathered wings of the figured satin, which taper to the pointed waist at the front and the back. The center front opening fastens with hooks and eyes. The bodice is fitted with two 8 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the front, while the back is constructed in eight pieces for a close fit. All seams and darts are boned. The bodice is lined with tan-colored cotton sateen printed with a white aster-like design and fine brown stripes. An extension of the lining fabric with hooks and eyes is stitched at the waistline to provide extra stability. Another extension of the figured satin covers the bodice opening from behind for a length of 11 1/4 inches from the neckline down. The bottom edge of the bodice is lined for a depth of one inch with green silk satin. All seam allowances are bound with peach silk tape.
The front panel of the skirt is made of the figured satin, while the sides and back are made of the velvet. The bottom of the skirt across this front panel is bordered with lengths of the velvet knotted together, with the knot ends pulled up vertically. The figured satin is gathered into a ruffle under this trimming of the velvet. The front of the skirt is smoothly fitted into the 7/8-inch-wide waistband, made of the figured satin. The skirt is cartridge-pleated across the center back. The center back opening extends eleven inches and fastens with two large hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistband. The lining of the skirt is plain-woven brown cotton, with a facing and scalloped ruffle of finely ribbed green silk stitched inside the hem.
NotesHistorical Notes: According to museum records, Mary Ellen Pike Chapin (b. 1833) wore this gown to a wedding in 1894. Originally from New Marlboro, Massachusetts, she married Edward M. Chapin (1833-1896) of New Hartford on 10 June 1856. Edward M. Chapin inherited his family's business, the Chapin Tool Factory, and was elected to represent his town in the state senate in 1872.The front panel of the skirt is made of the figured satin, while the sides and back are made of the velvet. The bottom of the skirt across this front panel is bordered with lengths of the velvet knotted together, with the knot ends pulled up vertically. The figured satin is gathered into a ruffle under this trimming of the velvet. The front of the skirt is smoothly fitted into the 7/8-inch-wide waistband, made of the figured satin. The skirt is cartridge-pleated across the center back. The center back opening extends eleven inches and fastens with two large hooks and eyes, mounted one behind the other, at the waistband. The lining of the skirt is plain-woven brown cotton, with a facing and scalloped ruffle of finely ribbed green silk stitched inside the hem.
Status
Not on view
