Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Adelaide Rathbone
(American)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1892-1894
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with gutta percha buttons, steel hooks and boning, wool hem tape, and machine-made lace
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width between shoulders): 24 x 13 1/2in. (61 x 34.3cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 39 3/4 x 84in. (101 x 213.4cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Raymond Perk
Object number1966.119.1a,b
DescriptionWoman's day dress of chocolate brown silk satin and velvet, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b). The bodice has a 2 1/2-inch-high, standing collar of satin, gathered into a rosette at the center front and a large bow at the back. The bodice is made of dark brown velvet, with a center front triangular panel of pleated satin, edged along the left side with a 2 1/4-inch-wide strip of satin suggesting a revers, tapering to one-inch-wide at the dipped center front waistline. The leg-o'-mutton sleeves are made with a large puff of the satin on the upper arm, gathered into a tight sleeve of the velvet reaching from the wrist to the elbow. The two center panels of the back are cut extra long and pulled up into decorative loops at the waistline. The bodice lining fastens with gutta percha buttons at the center front; the triangular panel of pleated satin fastens over this with metal hooks and thread eyes. The bodice is fitted with two 9 1/4-inch long darts on either side of the center front, while the back is cut in six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. Most of the darts and seams are boned. The lining fabric is tan-colored cotton sateen printed with thin triple stripes in dark brown. The front panel is lined in two different plain, brown cottons. The buttons appear to have been moved and the buttonhole edge altered by sewing old buttonholes closed and creating new ones.
The skirt is made entirely of the dark brown satin. It is slightly gathered in two rows across the front and cartridge-pleated across the back. Four and a half inches have been added to the waistband and the cartridge pleated let out only slightly, so that there is a gap in the center back opening when the waistband is buttoned in its new position. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a bias ruffle of self-fabric headed by a band of ruching. The edge of the ruffle is bound in self-fabric. The skirt has a separate lining of plain, brown cotton edged around the bottom, with the satin on the outside and with eight inches of a stiff, black-brown cotton on the inside. Brown wool hem tape is applied flat to the bottom edge.
The skirt is made entirely of the dark brown satin. It is slightly gathered in two rows across the front and cartridge-pleated across the back. Four and a half inches have been added to the waistband and the cartridge pleated let out only slightly, so that there is a gap in the center back opening when the waistband is buttoned in its new position. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a bias ruffle of self-fabric headed by a band of ruching. The edge of the ruffle is bound in self-fabric. The skirt has a separate lining of plain, brown cotton edged around the bottom, with the satin on the outside and with eight inches of a stiff, black-brown cotton on the inside. Brown wool hem tape is applied flat to the bottom edge.
Status
Not on view
