Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mrs. Charles B. Smith
(American)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1890
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk/cotton and cotton, with non-ferrous metal hooks, wool wadding, steel wire, one piece of steel boning, and other boning, probably of baleen
DimensionsDress (center back length x hem circumference): 144 x 78in. (365.8 x 198.1cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Kent W. Clark and Dr. James R. Miller
Object number1956.21.1
DescriptionWoman's dress of burgundy red velvet. The bodice has a pointed waist, a V-neckline, and a standing, wired collar that is 2 1/4 inches high at the back of the neck. The center front opening fastens with metal hooks and thread eyes. The sleeves are three-quarter length; they are gathered at the shoulder, then tapered to a tight fit at the elbow. The sleeve is cut in three pieces; the seam at the inside of the elbow is gathered to allow more comfortable movement. The bodice front is fitted with two nine-inch-long darts on each side; the back is cut in six pieces to achieve a close fit. The back panels of the bodice are cut one with the back panels of the skirt. Fabric is folded in deep, layered box pleats at the center back seam, leading into the skirt. At the inner side back seams, the skirt fabric is accordian-folded to create standing pleats at hip level. The outer side-back seams are decorated with self-fabric rosettes, also at hip level. The skirt front has one deep knife pleat at the center, and a shallow knife pleat to the left of the center. The right side of the skirt front is pleated up into the side seam to create an assymetrical draped effect. Around the bottom of the skirt's white cotton lining are stitched three layers of ruffles and pleats: the innermost layer is knife-pleated white cotton, edged with machine-made lace; the next layer is velvet, stitched smoothly to stiff, white cotton with a woven check; and the final layer of pleating under the skirt's top fabric is box-pleated velvet. Two silk pads filled with curled horsehair (probably) are stitched at the center back of the skirt to create a bustle. The skirt opens along the side back seams; the skirt side panels are pulled to the back as the skirt waistband fastens with large hooks and eyes at the center back. The back panel of the skirt covers this slightly awkward construction as it is pulled up and settled across the back of the hips by the fastening of the bodice. The waistband of the skirt is covered with a strip of self-fabric twisted in a rope-like decoration. The bodice is lined with cream-colored, twill-woven silk. There are dress shields in the armholes, stitched over black silk pads stuffed with wool. These pads prevent an awkward hollow in the fitting of the bodice front below the shoulders. All seams and darts are boned.
Status
Not on view
