Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Frances Eliza Smith
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1888
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk velvet, silk satin, and cotton, with cotton tape, silk tape, wool tape, unidentified boning, silk-covered ferrous metal buttons, and ferrous metal hooks and eyes
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width across shoulders): 23 1/4 x 12 1/2in. (59.1 x 31.8cm)
Other (bodice center front length): 18 1/2in. (47cm)
Skirt (center back length): 40 1/2in. (102.9cm)
Skirt (center front length x waist circumference): 24 3/4 x 39 3/4in. (62.9 x 101cm)
Hem (circumference): 88in. (223.5cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Dr. James R. Miller and Mrs. Kent W. Clark
Object number1956.21.2a,b
DescriptionWoman's two-piece day dress of dark blue velvet, consisting of a bodice (.a) and a skirt (.b). The bodice has a high, round neckline with a two-inch standing band collar, which closes with two hooks and thread-covered eyes. The center front opening of the bodice fastens with seventeen closely spaced, silk-covered buttons, along with several hooks and eyes for additional stability in the waist area. The lower edge of the bodice is shorter at center front than the sides and back; the center front edge is pointed. The sides of the bodice cover the top of the hips, and taper to a point at center back. The three-quarter-length sleeves are cut with two pieces for a tight fit; the upper piece is gathered into the seam at the elbow for ease. The sleeves are very slightly gathered into the shoulder seam, which is slightly high. The front of the bodice is fitted with two long darts on either side, while the back is cut with six pieces for a tight fit. The bodice is lined with blue silk satin. All seams and darts are boned. The raw edges of the seam allowances are bound with dark silk tape. A petersham is stitched at the waist to ease strain on seams and keep the bodice in place.
The skirt is styled with drapery that is open at center front, revealing the pleated underskirt. This drapery hangs straight to the hem; it is open at the side seams to again reveal the box-pleated underskirt. The center back panel of the skirt is box-pleated for fullness over a small bustle; it is open along the sides at the top, so that is fastens like a flap over the underskirt, tying around the waist. The underskirt in this area consists of the blue silk skirt lining, which is pleated into the waistband. The waistband fastens with two large brass hooks and eyes at the center back. The box pleats of the underskirt are held in place with brown cotton tape. The hem is finished with blue wool tape. The underskirt hem is lined for a depth of about 15 1/2 inches with stiff, white cotton woven with a windowpane check. The lining of the underskirt has casings for long strips of cane or other stiffener to control the skirt's fullness at the back.
The skirt is styled with drapery that is open at center front, revealing the pleated underskirt. This drapery hangs straight to the hem; it is open at the side seams to again reveal the box-pleated underskirt. The center back panel of the skirt is box-pleated for fullness over a small bustle; it is open along the sides at the top, so that is fastens like a flap over the underskirt, tying around the waist. The underskirt in this area consists of the blue silk skirt lining, which is pleated into the waistband. The waistband fastens with two large brass hooks and eyes at the center back. The box pleats of the underskirt are held in place with brown cotton tape. The hem is finished with blue wool tape. The underskirt hem is lined for a depth of about 15 1/2 inches with stiff, white cotton woven with a windowpane check. The lining of the underskirt has casings for long strips of cane or other stiffener to control the skirt's fullness at the back.
Status
Not on view
Object/Object
