Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Elizabeth Gay Sisson
(American, 1860 - 1897)
Clothing MakerMade by
Lord and Taylor
(American)
Dateabout 1887
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with baleen boning, brass hooks and eyes, ferrous metal strip, unidentified metal snap, elastic, and wool hem tape
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width across shoulders): 21 x 14in. (53.3 x 35.6cm)
Skirt (center front length): 41 1/2in. (105.4cm)
Hem (circumference): 80 1/2in. (204.5cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Roy D. Bassette, Jr. and John H. Bassette
Object number1976.18.13
DescriptionWoman's two-piece day dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), made of burnt-orange-colored ribbed silk, brocade, and orange-brown velvet. The bodice neckline is V-shaped. The proper right side of the bodice is made of the brocade, which is woven with a design of lilac sprigs. The left side of the bodice is the ribbed silk, pleated towards the center, with a strip of the velvet bordering the pleats from the shoulder to the waist. The V-neck is edged with the velvet. The center front opening fastens with brass hooks and eyes, which alternate for an extra-secure fit. The right side overlaps the left side at the bottom and fastens with a snap and a hook and eye. The waistline is pointed at center front and center back. A strip of velvet in a V-shape hooks across the front of the bodice waistline; the center front point also hooks to the skirt drapery. The shoulderline is natural, and the three-quarter-length sleeves are slightly gathered at the top of the shoulder. The sleeves are slightly curved, and end with gathered strips of the brocade and velvet twisted together. The Brussels lace that edges the neckline and wrist openings is not original to the dress, but is appropriate. The front of the bodice is fitted with two long darts on either side of the opening. The pattern of the bodice back is cut in eight pieces to achieve a close fit. All of the seams and darts are boned; the boning is covered with twill-woven silk tape. The lining fabric is a cotton sateen, printed with white diagonally barred dots and fine orange stripes on a beige background. The seams are finished by turning the raw edges of the fashion fabric and lining fabric in towards each other and whip stitching them together.
The skirt is assymetrically draped. The center front panel of brocade is flanked by lengths of the ribbed silk; the fabric of the proper left ribbed silk panel is pleated. Other pieces of brocade are revealed by the folding back of ribbed silk panels. The front of the skirt is smoothly fitted. An eye at the center front of the skirt attaches to the point of the velvet strip on the bottom of the bodice, giving the effect that the velvet is pulling up the drapery of the center front of the skirt. The back panel is gathered closely into a separate eleven-inch length of waistband, which hooks onto the main waistband on either side of the center back. The back of the skirt is entirely made of the ribbed silk. The skirt is lined with plain-woven brown cotton. The back of the skirt is gathered along a metal strip, with the ends tied together with elastic and plain cotton tapes. This keeps the fullness of the skirt controlled in the back and keeps the front smooth. The bottom edge of the skirt is faced with wool tape. The front of the hem is slashed perpendicular to the edge and finished with the wool tape, presumably to allow ease for the wearer to step forward.
The skirt is assymetrically draped. The center front panel of brocade is flanked by lengths of the ribbed silk; the fabric of the proper left ribbed silk panel is pleated. Other pieces of brocade are revealed by the folding back of ribbed silk panels. The front of the skirt is smoothly fitted. An eye at the center front of the skirt attaches to the point of the velvet strip on the bottom of the bodice, giving the effect that the velvet is pulling up the drapery of the center front of the skirt. The back panel is gathered closely into a separate eleven-inch length of waistband, which hooks onto the main waistband on either side of the center back. The back of the skirt is entirely made of the ribbed silk. The skirt is lined with plain-woven brown cotton. The back of the skirt is gathered along a metal strip, with the ends tied together with elastic and plain cotton tapes. This keeps the fullness of the skirt controlled in the back and keeps the front smooth. The bottom edge of the skirt is faced with wool tape. The front of the hem is slashed perpendicular to the edge and finished with the wool tape, presumably to allow ease for the wearer to step forward.
Status
Not on view
