Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Sarah Congdon Munger
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1887
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk, cotton, metallic (?) beads, wool tape, non-ferrous metal dress weights, unidentified boning, metal wire, metal hooks and eyes, and ferrous metal buttons
DimensionsBodice (length x width): 23 1/2 x 16 1/2in. (59.7 x 41.9cm)
Bodice (waist circumference): 41in. (104.1cm)
Skirt (center front length): 43in. (109.2cm)
Hem (circumference): 146in. (370.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Frank M. Chapin
Object number1953.19.3a,b
DescriptionWoman's two-piece evening dress of reddish-brown silk faille (rib-woven silk) and brown silk woven with a stripe and four-petaled flower design. The bodice (.a) has a square neckline, with a short, lapel-like collar of the figured silk. This collar has a scalloped edge, trimmed with large, faceted bronze-colored beads held in place by wire; it is ruffled at the back of the neck. The center front opening fastens with ten openwork metal buttons. The bodice is closely fitted, with two vertical darts on either side of the opening; it is cut with eight sections across the sides and back. The waistline is a W in front. The figured silk is used in narrow, decorative strips with piped edges that extend veritically along either side of the front, and continue across the back, where they form a V between the shoulders. Medallions made of bronze-colored beads decorate the bodice front; these medallions have pendants of large, faceted black beads. The sleeves are tightly fitted and are about three-quarter-length. The wrist edges are trimmed with faceted bronze beads, and the back of the wrists are decorated with a large beaded medallion with the pendants. Machine-made net lace trims the inside of the wrist openings. The bodice is lined with plain-woven brown cotton. The darts and seams are all boned. The center back extension of the bodice and the center front W are weighted with dress weights. A petersham encircles the waist, and separate extensions of the lining also hook at the waistline.
The skirt (.b) is elegantly draped with the two fabrics also used in the bodice. The center front panel is the brown faille, folded in such a manner that it appears plaited. It is flanked by panels of the figured silk, ending in pointed tabs at the bottom. The faille is draped diagonally over the hips, simulating eighteenth-century panniers. The center back of the skirt is a separate panel, open at the sides, forming a flap. It is folded into deep fan pleats and stitched to a wool tape, which ties around the waist. The skirt is lined with a dark cotton fabric, woven with a windowpane check. The inside of the hem edge has a double ruffle of stiff, white cotton trimmed with machine-made lace (called a "balyeuse"). There is an in-seam pocket on the right side. Cotton tapes in the skirt lining tie together to control the fullness of the skirt in the back and keep the front of the skirt smooth.
The skirt (.b) is elegantly draped with the two fabrics also used in the bodice. The center front panel is the brown faille, folded in such a manner that it appears plaited. It is flanked by panels of the figured silk, ending in pointed tabs at the bottom. The faille is draped diagonally over the hips, simulating eighteenth-century panniers. The center back of the skirt is a separate panel, open at the sides, forming a flap. It is folded into deep fan pleats and stitched to a wool tape, which ties around the waist. The skirt is lined with a dark cotton fabric, woven with a windowpane check. The inside of the hem edge has a double ruffle of stiff, white cotton trimmed with machine-made lace (called a "balyeuse"). There is an in-seam pocket on the right side. Cotton tapes in the skirt lining tie together to control the fullness of the skirt in the back and keep the front of the skirt smooth.
Status
Not on view
Object/Object
