Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1885
MediumMachine-stitched silk and cotton, with ferrous metal boning, metal hooks and eyes, abalone and metal buttons, glass beads, metallic braid, cotton wadding, and wool hem tape
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width across shoulders): 22 1/4 x 13 1/2in. (56.5 x 34.3cm)
Skirt (waist circumference): 23 1/2in. (59.7cm)
Hem (circumference): 83in. (210.8cm)
Component (cape center front length): 22 1/2in. (57.2cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Susan Becher
Object number1991.137.0a-c
DescriptionWoman's day dress, consisting of a bodice (.a), skirt (.b), and matching cape (.c), made of blue silk satin. The bodice has a triangular insert at the neck of white ribbed silk, embellished with narrow metallic braid stitched down in a meandering pattern. This insert also forms the front of the standing band collar. Pleated bands of the blue satin are laid across the bodice from the shoulders to the center front, forming a V-shaped outline to the insert. The base of the insert is decorated with a medallion of irridescent blue beads. The bodice center front opening is fastened with fourteen abalone shank buttons; the top seven buttons are covered by the white silk insert, which fastens with hooks and eyes on the proper right side of the neck. Beaded medallions are also stitched at the top of the shoulders, with beaded fringe that fall over the top of the sleeve. The three-quarter-length sleeves are decorated at the openings with faux cuffs of the ribbed white silk, also decorated with the meandering braid. Needlerun net lace ruffles are basted inside the wrist openings. The bodice is slightly longer than the natural waist, and is W-shaped at the center front. It is fitted at the front with two 8 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the front. The back is constructed of six panels to create a close fit. The two center back panels extend into narrow loops, lined with blue plush. The bodice is lined with twill-woven cream-colored cotton. The front darts and five of the back seams are boned. The seams are finished with pink silk tape binding. White machine-knitted cotton dress shields are mounted inside the armholes.
The skirt is smooth in front, and is constructed with a top layer of long, pointed tabs, decorated with beaded and tasseled medallions at the inside apex of each tab. Underneath the tabs, the skirt has two strips of blue plush with woven orange stripes on either side of the front. Inexpert stitching and an old fold line makes it evident that the back of the skirt has been altered. The blue satin of the back of the skirt fastens separately over the brown lining fabric, which is pleated into the waistband. The satin, which is currently pleated onto tapes of black cotton and blue wool, ties around the waist, but this is not original construction. The skirt is lined with brown glazed cotton; two strips of metal are inserted through casings across the back of the skirt to pull the skirt's fullness to the back. The bottom edge of the skirt is finished with blue wool tape.
The cape is seamed so that is lies closely over the top of the arms, so that the arms would be free only from the elbows down. The center front, which closes with hooks and eyes, extends in two square tabs to about the natural waist. The edges of the cape are trimmed with dark blue fringed trim, which is about three inches wide. The golden tan satin lining of the cape is machine-quilted. There are remnants of elastic at the seams; this was perhaps an original band which held the cape close to the body. Currently, there is a silk ribbon stitched to the back of the cape, which could be tied around the waist for the same purpose.
The skirt is smooth in front, and is constructed with a top layer of long, pointed tabs, decorated with beaded and tasseled medallions at the inside apex of each tab. Underneath the tabs, the skirt has two strips of blue plush with woven orange stripes on either side of the front. Inexpert stitching and an old fold line makes it evident that the back of the skirt has been altered. The blue satin of the back of the skirt fastens separately over the brown lining fabric, which is pleated into the waistband. The satin, which is currently pleated onto tapes of black cotton and blue wool, ties around the waist, but this is not original construction. The skirt is lined with brown glazed cotton; two strips of metal are inserted through casings across the back of the skirt to pull the skirt's fullness to the back. The bottom edge of the skirt is finished with blue wool tape.
The cape is seamed so that is lies closely over the top of the arms, so that the arms would be free only from the elbows down. The center front, which closes with hooks and eyes, extends in two square tabs to about the natural waist. The edges of the cape are trimmed with dark blue fringed trim, which is about three inches wide. The golden tan satin lining of the cape is machine-quilted. There are remnants of elastic at the seams; this was perhaps an original band which held the cape close to the body. Currently, there is a silk ribbon stitched to the back of the cape, which could be tied around the waist for the same purpose.
Status
Not on view
