Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mary James Crocker
(American)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1883
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk, cotton, and wool/cotton, with unidentified boning, buttons made of wooden molds and wire rings covered with silk thread, glass beads, cotton-covered and silk-covered wooden tassels, ferrous metal hooks and eyes, and wool hem tape
DimensionsBodice (center front length x width across shoulders): 20 3/8 x 13 1/4in. (51.8 x 33.7cm)
Skirt (center front length x hem circumference): 41 x 75 1/4in. (104.1 x 191.1cm)
Other (bodice center back length): 31in. (78.7cm)
Other (bodice waist circumference): 26 1/4in. (66.7cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Amy Crocker Leighton
Object number1956.46.8
DescriptionWoman's day dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and a skirt (.b), made of black silk damask and black rib-woven silk. The bodice is closely fitted and reaches to the hips, dipping slightly in front. The neckline is high and round and has a standing collar, which is about 1 3/8 inches wide. The center front opening fastens with fifteen dome-shaped buttons covered with faceted black beads. A small watch pocket is stitched at the waistline inside the proper left opening edge. The shoulderline is at the natural level. The long sleeves, which are constructed of two pieces so that they are closely fitted, are set smoothly into the armscye. The back of the bodice is constructed of six pieces, with the center back seam opening into a vent. The lower back extends into tails, which would fall over the bustle. These tails are decorated with four large beaded medallions, set two over two, and connected by beaded cord swags. A beaded tassel extends from each medallion. The bodice is lined with brown twill-woven cotton. The front darts and side seams are boned. The sleeves are lined with plain white cotton.
The skirt is assymetrically draped with the damask over the rib-woven silk. The draping is pleated up on the left side of the front; on the right side are mounted three large beaded medallions with beaded tassels (tassels are missing from the lowest medallion). A panel of the damask hangs fairly straight down the right side; vertically mounted over this panel is a pleated strip of damask, threaded through a beaded faux buckle. The damask is pleated up into a bustle at center back. The rib-woven silk skirt extends below the draping; it is bordered with a self-fabric ruffle, pleated in groups of three; the pleats are slightly gathered for extra texture. The bottom edge is covered with dark green wool tape. The skirt is lined with green/brown shot wool or wool/cotton. There is an in-seam pocket on the proper right side. The waistband, which has been made smaller by taking a couple of tucks (probably by the original owner), closes at center back with a large hook and eye. There is a pair of wool tape loops stitched to the inside of the waistband for hanging up the skirt for storage.
The skirt is assymetrically draped with the damask over the rib-woven silk. The draping is pleated up on the left side of the front; on the right side are mounted three large beaded medallions with beaded tassels (tassels are missing from the lowest medallion). A panel of the damask hangs fairly straight down the right side; vertically mounted over this panel is a pleated strip of damask, threaded through a beaded faux buckle. The damask is pleated up into a bustle at center back. The rib-woven silk skirt extends below the draping; it is bordered with a self-fabric ruffle, pleated in groups of three; the pleats are slightly gathered for extra texture. The bottom edge is covered with dark green wool tape. The skirt is lined with green/brown shot wool or wool/cotton. There is an in-seam pocket on the proper right side. The waistband, which has been made smaller by taking a couple of tucks (probably by the original owner), closes at center back with a large hook and eye. There is a pair of wool tape loops stitched to the inside of the waistband for hanging up the skirt for storage.
Status
Not on view
