Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Anne Beach
(1729 - 1796)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1765-1789
MediumHand-stitched silk and linen, with silk fly fringe
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length x waist circumference): 53 1/2 x 26in. (135.9 x 66cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of the estate of Geraldine W. Carmalt
Object number1968.48.1
DescriptionWoman's formal "open robe" dress of green silk brocade, woven with a large-scale, multi-color design of flowers and curlicues. The dress, which has a low, square neckline, extends in squared-off tabs on each side of the center front opening, then curves up over the hips and down to the center back. The skirt is open across the front to reveal a decorative petticoat; it is closely pleated all around the curved bottom edge of the bodice. The "en ferreau" bodice back is fitted by stitched-down pleats. The center back is designed to appear as if it was cut in one piece with the skirt, though it is actually seamed; the fullness of the center back pleats is released into the skirt in this area. The elbow-length sleeves are straight and set into the shoulder with small pleats for ease. "Engageantes," self-fabric ruffles which gradually deepen towards the outside of the elbow, decorate the sleeve openings. The engageantes on this dress are constructed in two layers, with the upper layer trimmed with multi-colored silk fly fringe around the top, while the lower edge is trimmed with cream-colored decorative cording. The lower layer is lined with plain, green silk. The bodice is lined with plain linen. The green silk brocade of the bodice is pieced along the center front edges and across the front tabs, perhaps to accommodate weight gain by the wearer.
NotesHistorical Notes: According to museum records, Anne Beach Johnson (1729-1796) wore this dress to George Washington's first inauguration on 30 April 1789 at Federal Hall in New York. However, according to Lynne Bassett, CHS Costume Specialist, the style of this dress dates it ten to twenty years prior to Washington's inauguration; the dress would have been out of style by 1789, so it was likely not worn at that event.Historical Note: Anne Beach married William Samuel Johnson (1727-1819) on 5 November 1749. He was the first President of Columbia University.
Status
Not on view
