Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Editha Laura Jacobs
(American, 1877 - 1969)
Clothing MakerMade by
Farnam
(American)
Date1896
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with wool tape, ferrous metal boning, wire, ferrous metal and brass hooks and eyes
DimensionsBodice (length x width between shoulders): 18 x 10 1/2in. (45.7 x 26.7cm)
Skirt (center back length x hem circumference): 42 1/2 x 198 1/2in. (108 x 504.2cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Editha Laura Jacobs
Object number1962.40.7a,b
DescriptionYoung woman's dress, consisting of a bodice (.a) and skirt (.b) of pink silk, with a wide neckline and very large, puffed, elbow-length sleeves. The bodice has a dipped waistline at front and back. The fabric is ruched into the center front waistline, with the fullness released to the neckline, where it is gathered again. The neckline is edged with a self-fabric ruffle, which has been cut off at the back of the neck. The sleeves are very tightly gathered into the top of the armscye, which falls at the natural shoulderline. The lining of the sleeve is slightly shorter than the fashion fabric, creating extra puffiness to the fullness of the arm opening. The sleeves are made to appear even larger by a wired double ruffle running the length of the sleeve. (The sleeves are actually constructed with two panels which are gathered and joined together down the outside length of the arm, 3 1/4 inches from the edge of each panel, with the extra fabric wired to stand up, forming the ruffle.) Six-inch-wide ribbon of a color perfectly matching the silk forms a large, loopy bow with 25 1/2-inch-long tails at the center back waistline. This ribbon is pleated for its length to form a band which hooks around the waist. The bodice is lined with plain, white cotton. It is fitted with two seven-inch-long darts on each side of the center front opening, which fastens with hooks and eyes. The back is constructed from six pattern pieces to achieve a close fit. All darts and seams are boned. A white silk, twill-woven petersham ribbon hooks around the inside waist. The fashion fabric fastens with hooks and eyes over the lining.
The gored skirt is very full around the bottom, while being smoothly fitted around the waist to the center back, where it is gathered. It is unembellished. There is a pocket in the proper right back seam. The lining is plain, white cotton. The waistband is wool tape, and the hem is edged with velvet over a flat, flexible wire or similar material to help stiffen the hem. A scalloped pink silk ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hem, over an extra six-inch-wide lining of white cotton. The center back opening extends about 10 1/2 inches and fastens with hooks and eyes. Like the bodice, the seam allowances are bound with white silk tape.
NotesHistorical Notes: According to Editha Laura Jacobs, she wore this dress to a class reception at Hartford Public High School in May 1896.The gored skirt is very full around the bottom, while being smoothly fitted around the waist to the center back, where it is gathered. It is unembellished. There is a pocket in the proper right back seam. The lining is plain, white cotton. The waistband is wool tape, and the hem is edged with velvet over a flat, flexible wire or similar material to help stiffen the hem. A scalloped pink silk ruffle (a "balayeuse") is stitched inside the hem, over an extra six-inch-wide lining of white cotton. The center back opening extends about 10 1/2 inches and fastens with hooks and eyes. Like the bodice, the seam allowances are bound with white silk tape.
Status
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