Wedding Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Rosa Frances Peckham
(American, born 1842)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1881
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk, with glass beads, silk lace, gilded glass buttons, baleen boning, and brass hooks and eyes
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width across shoulders): 33 1/4 x 14 1/2in. (84.5 x 36.8cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Rosamond Danielson
Object number1965.21.0a-b
DescriptionWoman's dress of ecru silk damask and satin, consisting of a bodice (a) and a skirt (b). The damask has a repeating pattern of a large, poppy-like flower. The bodice extends to below the hips on the sides and back. The center front is inset with a panel of ecru satin, which is pointed at the waistline; this panel is puckered in a grid pattern, with white "satin" beads marking the points where the fabric is pulled together. Flanking this center panel is pleated satin. The center front opening is hidden under this panel. It fastens with fourteen white glass buttons with a gilded floral pattern. The bodice side panels are made of the brocade, which is overlaid along the edges with wide ecru lace, stitched with the white beads. The lace trim continues down the edges of the bodice front sides, across the bottom edge, and up the side back vents. The neckline, which is high and round, is edged with a ruff of lace and finely pleated organdy. The three-quarter-length sleeves are cut in a narrow coat style; they are finished around the openings with a ruff similar to that at the neck, topped by a box-pleated band of satin (the pleats are pulled up and together like fans). The beaded lace is stitched down the outside of the arm and above the sleeve opening treatment, but around the outer half of the arm only (to avoid abrasion on the inside of the arm). The back of the bodice is vented at the side back seams. The center back extends in two unadorned tails, which are several inches longer than the sides. The bodice is lined with ecru silk; all of the seams are boned. The seams are finished by turning the brocade and silk lining fabric edges into each other and whip-stitching them together. A petersham hooks around the waist to ease stress on the seams.
The skirt is mostly flat in front and around the hips, with a few narrow pleats providing ease; the back of the skirt has layered box pleats. The front panel is satin, pulled up in puckers similar to the center front bodice panel, with the white satin glass beads dangling like small tassels from each point where the fabric is pulled together. The side and back panels of the skirt are made of the damask, trimmed with an edging of box-pleated satin, with the pleats pulled up and together like fans. The skirt is trained. It is lined with plain cotton; additionally, the train has tiers of pleated, stiff cotton ruffles. The hem edge of the lining is trimmed with lace. Tapes sewn inside the skirt control the fullness in the back of the skirt. The waistband closes behind the proper left hip, with hooks and eyes.
The skirt is mostly flat in front and around the hips, with a few narrow pleats providing ease; the back of the skirt has layered box pleats. The front panel is satin, pulled up in puckers similar to the center front bodice panel, with the white satin glass beads dangling like small tassels from each point where the fabric is pulled together. The side and back panels of the skirt are made of the damask, trimmed with an edging of box-pleated satin, with the pleats pulled up and together like fans. The skirt is trained. It is lined with plain cotton; additionally, the train has tiers of pleated, stiff cotton ruffles. The hem edge of the lining is trimmed with lace. Tapes sewn inside the skirt control the fullness in the back of the skirt. The waistband closes behind the proper left hip, with hooks and eyes.
Status
Not on view
