Chemise, Nightgown, and Drawers Set
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Mary Jerusha Bulkeley
(American, 1843 - 1921)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1865
MediumChemise: Machine-stitched and hand-stitched cotton.
Nightgown: Machine-stitched and hand-stitched cotton, with mother of pearl buttons.
Drawers: Machine-stitched cotton, with shell button.
DimensionsComponent (chemise length x width across top): 37 x 24 3/4in. (94 x 62.9cm)
Other (chemise width across bottom): 35in. (88.9cm)
Component (drawers length x width across waist): 31 x 16 1/2in. (78.7 x 41.9cm)
Component (nightgown center back length x width across shoulders): 52 1/2 x 18 1/4in. (133.4 x 46.4cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. J. H. K. Davis
Object number1953.27.0a-c
DescriptionChemise: Woman's white cotton chemise, with the front and back panels gathered into a narrow band, forming the wide and round neckline. This band is edged with whitework embroidery. The neckline band is also embellished with whitework embroidery. A triangular bib extends from the neckline band for about 7 1/2 inches down the center front. It is constructed of alternating vertical bands of gathered self-fabric and whitework. It is edged with the same scalloped whitework which surrounds the neckline. The sleeves are short (about 5 1/2 inches) and are set in with raglan seams. The top of the sleeve is constructed of alternating bands of gathered self-fabric and whitework, like the bib extension. The underarm area is reinforced with a lining. The bottom of the chemise is decorated with five narrow tucks. The hem is 7/8 inch wide.
Nightgown: Woman's white cotton nightgown, with a yoke decorated in front with alternating vertical rows of ruched cotton (of a finer weight than the rest of the garment) and whitework insertion. The back yoke is plain. The neckline is high and round and finished with a narrow band collar edged with eyelet embroidery. The original opening of the nightgown extended the entire length of the center front and fastened with mother of pearl buttons, but the lower half has been sewn closed. The button placket of the opening is made with the whitework embroidery, edged on each side with scalloped eyelet, worked with a spoked circle design matching that used on the other whitework. The sleeves are cut with an upper and lower seam like a coat sleeve and are gathered at the top of the armscye. The top of the sleeve is decorated below the elbow with a panel of alternating ruching and whitework insertion, like the yoke. The wrist edge is trimmed with matching eyelet. The hem is hand-stitched and is 2 1/2 inches deep.
Drawers: Woman's white cotton split drawers. The legs are set smoothly into the 3 7/8-inch-wide waist yoke, which is V-shaped at center front. The legs are trimmed with vertical bands of ruched fabric alternating with bands of whitework embroidery, headed by a horizontal band of scalloped whitework. Another horizontal band of whitework and scalloped whitework edging trims the bottom of the legs. This entire trimming is 5 1/2 inches wide.
NotesHistorical Note: According to museum records, this set is from the trousseau of Mary Bulkeley Brainard (1843-1921). She married Leverett Brainard (1843-1902) at the Pearl Street Congregational Church in Hartford, Connecticut, on 29 November 1865.Nightgown: Woman's white cotton nightgown, with a yoke decorated in front with alternating vertical rows of ruched cotton (of a finer weight than the rest of the garment) and whitework insertion. The back yoke is plain. The neckline is high and round and finished with a narrow band collar edged with eyelet embroidery. The original opening of the nightgown extended the entire length of the center front and fastened with mother of pearl buttons, but the lower half has been sewn closed. The button placket of the opening is made with the whitework embroidery, edged on each side with scalloped eyelet, worked with a spoked circle design matching that used on the other whitework. The sleeves are cut with an upper and lower seam like a coat sleeve and are gathered at the top of the armscye. The top of the sleeve is decorated below the elbow with a panel of alternating ruching and whitework insertion, like the yoke. The wrist edge is trimmed with matching eyelet. The hem is hand-stitched and is 2 1/2 inches deep.
Drawers: Woman's white cotton split drawers. The legs are set smoothly into the 3 7/8-inch-wide waist yoke, which is V-shaped at center front. The legs are trimmed with vertical bands of ruched fabric alternating with bands of whitework embroidery, headed by a horizontal band of scalloped whitework. Another horizontal band of whitework and scalloped whitework edging trims the bottom of the legs. This entire trimming is 5 1/2 inches wide.
Status
Not on view
