Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1875
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with wool tape, silk-covered wooden (?) buttons, unidentified boning (probably a non-ferrous metal), metal hooks and eyes, and machine-made cotton lace
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (bodice center back length x width across shoulders): 27 1/8 x 16 3/4in. (68.9 x 42.5cm)
Bodice (Center front length of bodice): 20in. (50.8cm)
Skirt (Center front length of skirt): 44in. (111.8cm)
Skirt (Center back length of skirt): 48in. (121.9cm)
Hem (hem circumference): 136in. (345.4cm)
Component (Front length of overskirt): 28in. (71.1cm)
Component (Back length of overskirt): 40 1/2in. (102.9cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Margaret Brockway Ofslager
Object number1978.45.40a-c
DescriptionWoman's day dress of olive green silk with contrasting elements of gold-colored silk, consisting of three parts: bodice (.a), skirt (.b) and overskirt (.c). The bodice is fitted over the hips, with a zigzag edge finished with thick piping covered with the gold silk. The neckline is high and round, finished with a 1/2-inch-wide binding of the olive silk. The bodice opens at center front and fastens with nine buttons covered with pale olive silk thread worked in what appears to be crochet. The back of the neck is trimmed with a pleated ruffle of the gold silk faced with the olive silk. As this trimming falls over the shoulders, it is folded back flat so that is forms a revers of the olive silk. The lower center back of the bodice is constructed with two tails, about ten inches long below the waistline, inside flaps extending from the side back panels of the bodice. These elements are graduated in length so that the center back is pointed. Two large buttons decorate the center back waistline. The sleeves are cut with an upper and lower seam like a coat sleeve, and edged inside the wrist opening with a machine-made cotton net lace. The darts and side seams of the bodice are boned. The bodice is lined with tan twill-woven cotton above the waistline and with the gold silk below the waistline.
The skirt is decorated down the front with wide ruched panels of self-fabric. About sixteen inches from the bottom edge is a decorative band of of the gold silk, consisting of triangles in groups of three connected by pleated swags and headed by ruched bands of the olive silk. Below this is a flounce of the olive silk, bordered with two ruffles of the gold silk. The back of the skirt is cartridge-pleated and pulled up into a bustle by tabs which attach to buttons. The skirt is lined with stiff, coarsely woven undyed cotton, with an extra 6 3/4-inch-wide layer of stiff brown cotton around the hem. There is an in-seam pocket on the proper right side. The bottom edge of the skirt is bound with beige wool tape.
The overskirt is open in front, with a wide revers made of the gold silk. The edges of the revers are finished with thick piping covered in the gold silk; this treatment continues around the overskirt two inches above the bottom edge. The outer edges of the revers are trimmed with six large buttons covered with gold silk threadwork (one button is missing from the right side.) The olive silk fabric is pulled up and attached under the revers about midway down the length; this creates volume across the back, along with cartridge-pleating at the waistband across the center back. There are cotton tapes stitched in the seams of the interior of the overskirt; these tapes could be tied together to control the shape of the overskirt. The waistband originally closed with hooks and eyes at center front.
The skirt is decorated down the front with wide ruched panels of self-fabric. About sixteen inches from the bottom edge is a decorative band of of the gold silk, consisting of triangles in groups of three connected by pleated swags and headed by ruched bands of the olive silk. Below this is a flounce of the olive silk, bordered with two ruffles of the gold silk. The back of the skirt is cartridge-pleated and pulled up into a bustle by tabs which attach to buttons. The skirt is lined with stiff, coarsely woven undyed cotton, with an extra 6 3/4-inch-wide layer of stiff brown cotton around the hem. There is an in-seam pocket on the proper right side. The bottom edge of the skirt is bound with beige wool tape.
The overskirt is open in front, with a wide revers made of the gold silk. The edges of the revers are finished with thick piping covered in the gold silk; this treatment continues around the overskirt two inches above the bottom edge. The outer edges of the revers are trimmed with six large buttons covered with gold silk threadwork (one button is missing from the right side.) The olive silk fabric is pulled up and attached under the revers about midway down the length; this creates volume across the back, along with cartridge-pleating at the waistband across the center back. There are cotton tapes stitched in the seams of the interior of the overskirt; these tapes could be tied together to control the shape of the overskirt. The waistband originally closed with hooks and eyes at center front.
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