Dress
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1873
MediumHand-stitched wool/cotton fabric and cotton, with baleen boning, machine-made bobbin-type cotton lace, silk-covered ferrous metal buttons, mother of pearl button, platic button, and wool hem tape
DimensionsBodice (center back length x width across shoulders): 23 5/8 x 14 1/2in. (60 x 36.8cm)
Skirt (front length): 39in. (99.1cm)
Skirt (back length): 40 1/2in. (102.9cm)
Hem (circumference): 95 1/2in. (242.6cm)
Component (overskirt length): 35in. (88.9cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Leon Hart, in memory of George F. Spencer and his daughter, Martha Linsley Spencer
Object number1967.36.6a-c
DescriptionWoman's day dress of chocolate brown wool/cotton fabric, consisting of three parts: bodice (.a), skirt (.b), and overskirt (.c). The bodice has a high neckline with a short band collar trimmed with a bias strip of self-fabric. The neckline edge is piped, as are the armscye seams. The sleeves are cut with an upper and lower seam like a coat sleeve and are plain. A wide edging of machine-made bobbin lace has been added to the wrist openings, but is not original; the lace trim inside the neck edge is also not original. The bodice opens at center front and fastens with eight buttons of silk in a matching brown color covering a metal button mold. A double strip of bias self-fabric is laid in a square shape over the front of the bodice; it continues across the back, forming a wide V between the shoulders. The bodice is seamed at the waist from the front around to the sides. It extends about 2 1/2 inches beyond the waist at the side seam, and gradually deepens to a point at the center back. Two 6 1/2-inch darts on either side of the front opening provide fitting, along with curved side back seams; the darts and the side seams are boned. The bodice is lined with brown twill-woven cotton.
The skirt has a 13 1/2-inch-deep self-fabric flounce, which is stitched over the base skirt. The bottom edge of the base skirt is bound with brown wool tape. The skirt is flat in front and box-pleated across the back. The waistband (which is covered with a non-original brown silk ribbon with blue chevron stripes) buttons over the proper left hip with a brown button made of an early plastic. The lining of the skirt is tan glazed cotton.
The overskirt has an apron-like panel in the front, and decorative buttons matching those used on the bodice on the sides, where it meets the side back panels. The back panel is gathered into the waistband, with the gathers controlled for 1 1/2 inches vertically. The waistband buttons with a single mother of pearl button. All of the overskirt panels are edged with a 1 1/2-inch-wide bias strip of self-fabric; the front and side back panels are V-shaped and the back is W-shaped. They become gradually longer from front to back. The overskirt is not lined.
The skirt has a 13 1/2-inch-deep self-fabric flounce, which is stitched over the base skirt. The bottom edge of the base skirt is bound with brown wool tape. The skirt is flat in front and box-pleated across the back. The waistband (which is covered with a non-original brown silk ribbon with blue chevron stripes) buttons over the proper left hip with a brown button made of an early plastic. The lining of the skirt is tan glazed cotton.
The overskirt has an apron-like panel in the front, and decorative buttons matching those used on the bodice on the sides, where it meets the side back panels. The back panel is gathered into the waistband, with the gathers controlled for 1 1/2 inches vertically. The waistband buttons with a single mother of pearl button. All of the overskirt panels are edged with a 1 1/2-inch-wide bias strip of self-fabric; the front and side back panels are V-shaped and the back is W-shaped. They become gradually longer from front to back. The overskirt is not lined.
Status
Not on view
