Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by a member of the
Pendleton family
(American)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1880
MediumMachine-stitched and hand-stitched silk and cotton, with velvet-covered wooden (?) button molds, unidentified boning, wool tape, cotton lace, and enameled ferrous metal hooks and eyes
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x width across shoulders): 24 1/2 x 14in. (62.2 x 35.6cm)
Skirt (length): 38in. (96.5cm)
Hem (circumference): 87 1/4in. (221.6cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of John Baron
Object number1990.153.5a,b
DescriptionWoman's two-piece day dress, consisting of a cuirass bodice (.a) and skirt (.b), of dark brownish black silk. The bodice is long and fitted, extending over the hips, with a straight bottom edge in front and slightly dipped edge in the back to accomodate the skirt bustle. The neckline is high, with a one-inch-wide band collar of dark brownish-black velvet. Extending below the neckline in a square is matching velvet, vertically pleated. This square is bordered with a box-pleated ruffle of the silk fabric, with threads pulled to create a self-fringe. This ruffle extends from the left side, to pin over the bottom edge of the right side. The bodice closes at the center front with eight velvet-covered buttons. The shoulderline of the bodice is close to natural. The tight sleeves are three-quarter-length, and trimmed around the wrist openings with black machine-made bobbin-type lace. The wrist openings curve up to the seam along the back of the arm; this seam is decorated at the wrist with three velvet-covered, non-functioning buttons. A velvet bow set on an angle decorates the center back of the bodice at the bottom. The bottom edge of the bodice is finished with velvet-covered piping.
The bodice front is fitted with two long vertical darts on either side of the center front opening; there is a horizontal dart at the waistline between the side back panel and second vertical dart. The back is fitted with a narrow, flared panel at the sides, curved side back seams, and a center back seam. The bodice is lined with tan twill-woven cotton. The darts at the front of the bodice are boned above the waistline. A petersham of the same fabric as the lining is stitched at the waistline. White twill-woven cotton dress shields are stitched at the underarms.
The front of the skirt (.b) is narrow and constructed of four tiers of black silk (sewn on the bias) at the top of the skirt, then three tiers of velvet, four tiers of silk, and finally, a flounce of velvet around the bottom. The lower tier of the velvet and the lower tier of the second row of silk are trimmed with silk fringe. The bottom edge of the skirt base is finished with wool tape. The back of the skirt is pleated into the waistband (which closes at center back) and gathered in a large puff at the center back. This center panel of the skirt back is trimmed with fringe at the bottom, which ends above the velvet flounce. The corners of the center back panel are turned back to show a velvet revers. Inside the skirt are wool tapes, which tie behind the knees to keep the skirt smooth and tight in front and full in back. The skirt is lined with brown, plain-woven cotton, and the hem has an extra ten-inch-wide lining of dark brown, glazed cotton.
The dress fabric in the skirt appears to have been reused, as there are numerous old stitch lines throughout.
The bodice front is fitted with two long vertical darts on either side of the center front opening; there is a horizontal dart at the waistline between the side back panel and second vertical dart. The back is fitted with a narrow, flared panel at the sides, curved side back seams, and a center back seam. The bodice is lined with tan twill-woven cotton. The darts at the front of the bodice are boned above the waistline. A petersham of the same fabric as the lining is stitched at the waistline. White twill-woven cotton dress shields are stitched at the underarms.
The front of the skirt (.b) is narrow and constructed of four tiers of black silk (sewn on the bias) at the top of the skirt, then three tiers of velvet, four tiers of silk, and finally, a flounce of velvet around the bottom. The lower tier of the velvet and the lower tier of the second row of silk are trimmed with silk fringe. The bottom edge of the skirt base is finished with wool tape. The back of the skirt is pleated into the waistband (which closes at center back) and gathered in a large puff at the center back. This center panel of the skirt back is trimmed with fringe at the bottom, which ends above the velvet flounce. The corners of the center back panel are turned back to show a velvet revers. Inside the skirt are wool tapes, which tie behind the knees to keep the skirt smooth and tight in front and full in back. The skirt is lined with brown, plain-woven cotton, and the hem has an extra ten-inch-wide lining of dark brown, glazed cotton.
The dress fabric in the skirt appears to have been reused, as there are numerous old stitch lines throughout.
Status
Not on view
