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Dress

Original Owner (American, 1772 - 1856)
Clothing Maker
Dateabout 1836-1840
MediumHand-stitched silk damask and velvet, wadded with wool, and lined with glazed cotton and linen; brass hooks and eyes, and buckram belt interlining
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x width across shoulders): 49 1/2 x 19in. (125.7 x 48.3cm) Other (waist circumference): 26in. (66cm) Hem (circumference): 121in. (307.3cm) Other (length): 24 1/4in. (61.6cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Arthur Carmody
Object number1984.71.1a,b
DescriptionWoman's day dress of olive green and brown silk floral damask, trimmed with brown velvet. The dress is in the "redingote" front-opening style, and has a matching damask belt (.b) The sleeves are fitted into the shoulder with narrow pleats, which are controlled with two rows of chain stitching three inches below the top of the armhole. The fullness is released and then gathered up again to create a puff above the elbow. A scalloped ruffle trimmed with the velvet extends below the puff, over the sleeve which is tight between the elbow and wrist. The wrist is trimmed with a scalloped cuff made of the velvet. This "banded-down" sleeve is distinctive to the 1836-1840 period.
The bodice is trimmed with a wide collar of the brown velvet, and two wide strips of velvet in a "V" formation from the shoulders to the waistline. The velvet extends in a gradually widening strip from the waistband to the hem, imitating the effect of a front-opening coat. The skirt is smooth in the center front of the waist, knife-pleated over the hips, and cartridge-pleated at center back. Curved faux seams on the bodice back are created with narrow strips of the velvet. Most of the seams of the bodice are piped. The dress opens at the bodice center front with brass hooks and eyes. The opening extends to the waistband and then is offset several inches to the right and down the skirt for eleven inches.
The dress is wadded with wool throughout, including the sleeves. The skirt is lined with brown glazed cotton cambric. The bodice is lined with undyed plain-woven linen.
The belt is made of the olive damask, interlined with buckram and lined with brown cambric. It closes with hooks and eyes set three inches back from the edge; a large decorative buckle would have covered this area.
NotesHistorical Note: Donor family history states that this dress was the wedding dress of Anna Frisbie Marshall (1772-1856), who married Harvey Marshall in 1794. Their daughter, Sophronia Frisbie Marshall (b. 1805), married James Goddard on 30 September 1825 in Hartford, Connecticut. Despite family history, the color and design of the dress are typical of the 1830s, not the 1790s. The Costume Specialist of the Connecticut Historical Society believes that this dress was either worn by Anna Frisbie Marshall as an elderly lady, or by her daughter, Sophronia, after she married James Goddard. Contrary to family tradition, the dress is not old enough to be either woman's wedding dress.




Status
Not on view
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Gift of Phyllis Kihn, 1980.38.4a-d  © 2013 The Connecticut Historical Society.
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