Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Jerusha Blake Rist
(American, born 1845)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1867-1870, with later alterations
MediumHand-stitched and machine-stitched silk and cotton, with silk-covered ferrous metal buttons, tow lining fabric, brass hooks and eyes, and wool tape
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x width across shoulders): 60 x 15 1/2in. (152.4 x 39.4cm)
Hem (circumference): 164in. (416.6cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Helen Louise Judson
Object number1962.32.1a-c
DescriptionWoman's green silk day dress (.a), with a sash (.b) and overskirt (.c). The dress bodice is fitted in the front by four vertical darts. The center front closes with ten buttons of silk-covered molds in a flower shape on a disk background. The neckline is high and round; the left side of the bodice is longer than the right, so that the neckline does not meet smoothly at center front. The bodice is decorated with three rows of green silk satin fabric stitched in strips, side-by-side, simulating a square neckline. The neckline, armscyes, and waist edge are all piped. The sleeves were originally coat sleeves, but they have been widened at the wrist by piecing out the silk and trimming with box-pleated silk ribbon and lace to update the fashion. The bodice is lined with tan twill-woven cotton; the sleeves are lined with plain-woven glazed tan cotton. The bodice is boned at the front darts. The bodice has been altered by taking in the side seams with machine-stitching. Squares of knitted cotton fabric have been basted to the armholes as dress shields.
The skirt is cartridge-pleated across the back and smooth across the front. It has been altered by stitching a large tuck down the front to make the skirt narrower; viewing the skirt from the inside, the original in-seam pocket is visible in this later alteration. The skirt has been restitched poorly to the bodice. The skirt is lined with glazed plain-woven tan cotton. The bottom edge is lined with coarse tow cloth for a depth of eight inches, and finished with green wool tape.
The sash (.b) is made of matching green silk fabric, with a 1 1/2-inch-wide waistband bound with the green satin. The sash closes at center front with two brass hooks and eyes. At the center back is mounted a large bow-like ornament, centered with a rosette over a semi-circular section and two tails with diagonal ends. The edges are bound with the green silk satin.
The overskirt (.c), also of matching green silk fabric, consists of four pointed panels that are pleated onto a narrow waistband. The two panels in front are shorter than the two in back. The panels are edged with three rows of the green satin. At each hip is mounted a self-fabric rosette bound with green satin. The rosettes are stiffened with a backing of coarse, stiff, open-woven fabric. The overskirt closes at center front with a hook and eye.
The skirt is cartridge-pleated across the back and smooth across the front. It has been altered by stitching a large tuck down the front to make the skirt narrower; viewing the skirt from the inside, the original in-seam pocket is visible in this later alteration. The skirt has been restitched poorly to the bodice. The skirt is lined with glazed plain-woven tan cotton. The bottom edge is lined with coarse tow cloth for a depth of eight inches, and finished with green wool tape.
The sash (.b) is made of matching green silk fabric, with a 1 1/2-inch-wide waistband bound with the green satin. The sash closes at center front with two brass hooks and eyes. At the center back is mounted a large bow-like ornament, centered with a rosette over a semi-circular section and two tails with diagonal ends. The edges are bound with the green silk satin.
The overskirt (.c), also of matching green silk fabric, consists of four pointed panels that are pleated onto a narrow waistband. The two panels in front are shorter than the two in back. The panels are edged with three rows of the green satin. At each hip is mounted a self-fabric rosette bound with green satin. The rosettes are stiffened with a backing of coarse, stiff, open-woven fabric. The overskirt closes at center front with a hook and eye.
Status
Not on view
