Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Caroline Lucinda Bolles
(American, 1826 - 1889)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Date1861
MediumHand-stitched and machine-stitched silk with cotton lining and cashmere or mohair plush and silk cording.
Skirt A: Brass hooks and eyes.
Bodice B: Metal boning, brass hooks and eyes, silk tassels, and faux mother of pearl enameled metal buttons.
Bodice C: Metal boning and brass hooks and eyes.
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (height x width): 47 x 9 3/4in. (119.4 x 24.8cm)
Hem: 182in. (462.3cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mrs. C. P. Moies and Mrs. Herbert Baeder
Object number1972.3.5a-c
DescriptionWoman's dress with two optional bodices (one for day wear, the other for evening), made of bright yellow silk taffeta, trimmed with white plush.
A: The skirt is very large to accomodate hoops; it is longer in back than in the front. The 182-inch circumference of the skirt is controlled at the 19 3/4-inch waist by layered box pleats stitched to the waistband. The hem is decorated with a 5 3/4-inch width of white plush, topped by a cream silk cording. The skirt is fully lined with white glazed cotton. The waistband is lined with twill-woven white cotton. The hem edge is finished with cream-colored twill-woven wool tape.
B: Day bodice with coat sleeves trimmed with white plush and cording. Two cream-colored silk tassels hang from the outer wrist edge. The sleeves have a 2 1/2-inch-wide, m-shaped cap at the top, with another pair of tassels hanging from the center of the m. The bodice length is above the natural waistline, measuring 6 3/8 inches at the side under the armscye. The bodice closes at center front with six pearly dome-shaped shank buttons and two hooks and eyes. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the opening. The neckline is high and round; it is finished with self-covered piping, as is the waistline edge and armscye seams. The bodice is lined with white twill-woven cotton. The sleeves are lined with white glazed cotton. The wrist openings are lined with ecru silk, edged on the inside with pleated ecru silk ribbon.
C: Evening bodice with short sleeves, which at their widest point at the top of the arm measure 4 1/8 inches. These sleeves are trimmed with a 3/4-inch wide band of the plush topped by the silk cord. The bodice has a wide neckline, finished with narrow, self-covered piping. The waistline edge and armscye seams are also piped. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front, which closes with hooks and eyes. White twill-woven cotton is used for the bodice lining, and ecru glazed cotton is used to line the sleeves. The front darts and side seams are boned.
NotesHistorical Note: According to a letter written by the donors, Caroline Lucinda Bolles (Mrs. Edward Spicer Cleveland) (1826-1889) wore this dress to the first inaugural ball of President Abraham Lincoln in 1861. Her husband, Edward Spicer Cleveland, was a prominent member of the Wide Awake movement in 1860 and actively campaigned for Lincoln.A: The skirt is very large to accomodate hoops; it is longer in back than in the front. The 182-inch circumference of the skirt is controlled at the 19 3/4-inch waist by layered box pleats stitched to the waistband. The hem is decorated with a 5 3/4-inch width of white plush, topped by a cream silk cording. The skirt is fully lined with white glazed cotton. The waistband is lined with twill-woven white cotton. The hem edge is finished with cream-colored twill-woven wool tape.
B: Day bodice with coat sleeves trimmed with white plush and cording. Two cream-colored silk tassels hang from the outer wrist edge. The sleeves have a 2 1/2-inch-wide, m-shaped cap at the top, with another pair of tassels hanging from the center of the m. The bodice length is above the natural waistline, measuring 6 3/8 inches at the side under the armscye. The bodice closes at center front with six pearly dome-shaped shank buttons and two hooks and eyes. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the opening. The neckline is high and round; it is finished with self-covered piping, as is the waistline edge and armscye seams. The bodice is lined with white twill-woven cotton. The sleeves are lined with white glazed cotton. The wrist openings are lined with ecru silk, edged on the inside with pleated ecru silk ribbon.
C: Evening bodice with short sleeves, which at their widest point at the top of the arm measure 4 1/8 inches. These sleeves are trimmed with a 3/4-inch wide band of the plush topped by the silk cord. The bodice has a wide neckline, finished with narrow, self-covered piping. The waistline edge and armscye seams are also piped. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the center front, which closes with hooks and eyes. White twill-woven cotton is used for the bodice lining, and ecru glazed cotton is used to line the sleeves. The front darts and side seams are boned.
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