Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Chloe Elizabeth Holcomb
(American, 1836 - 1911)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1865-1870
MediumHand-stitched and machine-stitched silk, linen, and cotton, with wool hem tape, brass hooks and eyes, unidentified boning (probably baleen), and silk and cotton covered wooden button molds
DimensionsBodice (back length x width across shoulders): 15 x 18in. (38.1 x 45.7cm)
Skirt (length): 49in. (124.5cm)
Hem (circumference): 141 1/2in. (359.4cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Elizabeth Yale Hall
Object number1950.16.28a,b
DescriptionWoman's two-piece day dress consisting of a bodice and skirt, made of black and white checked silk. The bodice is styled with a high, round neck, dropped shoulderline, plain coat sleeves, and a center front opening. The opening is controlled with brass hooks and eyes. On the left side of the opening are eight non-functioning buttons, which are dome-shaped and covered with black silk and cotton cords woven in a decorative grid. The bodice is fitted with two 6 1/2-inch-long darts on either side of the opening; the darts are boned. The waist is slightly high, measuring seven inches at the sides under the armscye seam. The neckline, armscye seams, and waist edge are piped. The bodice is lined with white, plain-woven linen. The bodice seaming is stitched by machine.
The skirt is flat in front and cartridge-pleated across the back. It appears to have been altered from a fuller skirt style: the side panels have been stitched like gores, leaving the excess material from the rectangular panel inside the dress. The top of the left side seam was left unstitched because the seamstress apparently couldn't get the gored panels to fit smoothly, leaving an awkward bunch of material on the inside, and a pleat-like effect on the outside. The stitching of the right side seam is pulled open, and the stitch marks on the front panel extend about an inch beyond those on the side panel, suggesting again that the seamstress was having trouble dealing with the excess fabric when she gored the skirt panels. The waistband is two inches wide, and is finshed across the bottom edge with piping. The skirt is lined with white glazed cotton. The hem is faced with 9 3/4 inches of plain cotton, headed by a narrow strip of glazed cotton. The bottom edge of the skirt is bound with black wool tape.
The skirt is flat in front and cartridge-pleated across the back. It appears to have been altered from a fuller skirt style: the side panels have been stitched like gores, leaving the excess material from the rectangular panel inside the dress. The top of the left side seam was left unstitched because the seamstress apparently couldn't get the gored panels to fit smoothly, leaving an awkward bunch of material on the inside, and a pleat-like effect on the outside. The stitching of the right side seam is pulled open, and the stitch marks on the front panel extend about an inch beyond those on the side panel, suggesting again that the seamstress was having trouble dealing with the excess fabric when she gored the skirt panels. The waistband is two inches wide, and is finshed across the bottom edge with piping. The skirt is lined with white glazed cotton. The hem is faced with 9 3/4 inches of plain cotton, headed by a narrow strip of glazed cotton. The bottom edge of the skirt is bound with black wool tape.
Status
Not on view
5 June 1862
