Dress
Original OwnerOriginally owned by
Nancy Diantha Terry
(American, 1823 - 1882)
Clothing MakerMade by
Unknown
Dateabout 1875
MediumHand-stitched wool and cotton, with silk velvet, glass beads, unidentified boning, and metal hooks and eyes
DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (length x width across shoulders): 64 1/2 x 20in. (163.8 x 50.8cm)
Hem (circumference): 178in. (452.1cm)
ClassificationsCostume
Credit LineGift of Mariette Newman Fitch
Object number1952.69.48
DescriptionWoman's blue wool day dress, constructed around 1870 by modifying a dress which was originally made in the 1850s. The bodice has a high, round neckline, dropped shoulder, and natural waistline. It is fitted with three 7 1/4-inch-long darts on either side of the center front opening. Nine dark blue velvet-covered buttons (one is missing) are used for the closure. The bodice was decorated around 1870 with a "V"-shaped band of dark blue velvet trimmed with black bead fringe in the front; this decoration continues over the shoulders and also forms a "V" in the back. The coat sleeves (which may have been an 1860s modification of the dress) are decorated around the wrists with a band of the blue velvet; following the line of the outer arm from the shoulder and continuing in a curve around the forearm of the sleeve is a band of the blue velvet edged with black braid trimmed with black bugle beads. The sleeves are piped on the inside and outer arm seams (a very unusual treatment in this period); the armscye seams, the neckline, and the waistline edge are also piped. The bodice is lined with brown twill-woven cotton, with an extra layer of brown plain-woven linen across the shoulders. Two darts on each side are boned, as are the side seams.
The skirt, which is attached to the dress, is flat in front, and knife-pleated over the hips and across the back. Old fold lines, stitch marks, and corners of leftover skirt fabric turned to the inside indicate that the skirt was modified; originally, it would have been full all the way around, but the rectangular skirt side panels were restitched to a gore shape. There is an in-seam pocket on the right side. This pocket is decorated with a band of blue velvet ribbon with two velvet-covered buttons trimmed with bead fringe on either end. A matching decoration appears on a faux pocket on the opposite side of the skirt, to balance the effect. The skirt is further trimmed with two bands of blue velvet 4 1/4 inches from the bottom edge. The back of the skirt is draped up in two tiers. The uppermost tier is created by tying together tapes inside the skirt; below this, the drapery is created by attaching hooks and eyes together which have been mounted on five seams. The skirt is lined with beige cotton; the hem is faced with 11 1/2 inches of blue cotton fabric, and the bottom edge is bound with blue wool tape.
The skirt, which is attached to the dress, is flat in front, and knife-pleated over the hips and across the back. Old fold lines, stitch marks, and corners of leftover skirt fabric turned to the inside indicate that the skirt was modified; originally, it would have been full all the way around, but the rectangular skirt side panels were restitched to a gore shape. There is an in-seam pocket on the right side. This pocket is decorated with a band of blue velvet ribbon with two velvet-covered buttons trimmed with bead fringe on either end. A matching decoration appears on a faux pocket on the opposite side of the skirt, to balance the effect. The skirt is further trimmed with two bands of blue velvet 4 1/4 inches from the bottom edge. The back of the skirt is draped up in two tiers. The uppermost tier is created by tying together tapes inside the skirt; below this, the drapery is created by attaching hooks and eyes together which have been mounted on five seams. The skirt is lined with beige cotton; the hem is faced with 11 1/2 inches of blue cotton fabric, and the bottom edge is bound with blue wool tape.
Status
Not on view
