Images(3)

Mourning Dress

Original OwnerOriginally owned by Jane Holcomb (American, born 1807)

Dateabout 1863

MediumHand-stitched silk and cotton, with brass hooks and eyes, unidentified boning (probably baleen), velvet ribbon and wool tape

DimensionsPrimary Dimensions (center back length x width across shoulders): 62 x 17in. (157.5 x 43.2cm) Hem (circumference): 171in. (434.3cm)

ClassificationsCostume

Credit LineGift of Elizabeth Yale Hall

Object number1950.16.20

DescriptionBlack silk dress for second mourning with bell sleeves which have three bands of pleated ruching at the top, and a wide band of black velvet ribbon around the bell. The inside of the sleeve "bell" is lined with white silk and the opening edge is trimmed on the inside with box-pleated white silk ribbon. The bodice front is pleated into the slightly dipped center front, and fanned out to the dropped shoulderline. The center back of the bodice is also pleated into the waistline, with the fullness released across the back. The neckline is high and round. The dress closes at center front with brass hooks and eyes. The neckline, armscye seams, and waistline edge are piped. The bodice is lined with brown glazed cotton; the darts in the lining, center front opening edges, and side seams are boned (the boning is missing from the left opening edge).

The fullness of the skirt is controlled by layered box pleats at the waistline. The skirt has two tiers of flounces. The first is headed by a two-inch-wide gathered band, and finishes the wide band of black velvet ribbon. The lower flounce is nineteen inches wide, and is finished at the bottom with another band of the black velvet ribbon. The base skirt is finished around the hem with black wool tape. The skirt is fully lined with beige plain-woven cotton.

NotesHistorical Note: It is believed that this is a mourning dress. Both Mrs. Mather's husband and son died in 1863, so she naturally would have been wearing mourning attire at that time. (Bassett 11/6/2001)

Status

Not on view